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csh torque steering

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  • csh torque steering

    Could anyone explain why my 2005 Sorensen with a 302.
    Always want to turn left. bottom is flat and boat straight.
    after 5 or 6 laps right arm is so exhausted almost can't
    hold wheel.

  • #2
    Do you have direct, or in-direct steering?

    Joe

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    • #3
      turn fin

      make it is parrallel to the airtraps.

      Bill
      Support your local club and local races.

      Bill Pavlick

      I'm just glad I'm not Michael Mackey - BPIII

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      • #4
        fin

        Mr. Pavlick is right....we like make sure the fin is perdendicualr to the planing surface and parallel to the air traps. This may require shimming the fin bracket. You should also check the skeg on your motor.

        I like my steering tight too.....in case you have to re position your hand

        you shouldn't be fighting your wheel so much

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        • #5
          Tighten the friction nut on the steering wheel, tie down the motor really tight and adjust the friction nut on the motor.

          I run direct steering on my CSH and do not have an issue. But my steering is VERY tight.
          Brian 10s

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          • #6
            also check to be sure the fin is machined evenly and the center is not offset. It must be parallel to the air trap. Scott is very right to say it should be perpendicular to the bottom as well. Make sure your motor is level and not tilted thus throughing off that angle of attack. Even if your steering is looser than most it should not pull that much if the set up is "on"

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            • #7
              What size drum does he have on his steering wheel? It makes a difference

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              • #8
                Put a laser level on your fin and go back and measure the distance at several places on the air trap. It should be the same measurment all the way down the airtrap back to the transom. Shim accordingly to achieve this. Run indirect sterring using a big hub sterring wheel. Adjust the hub nut while testing. With these things done you should be able to remove your hand from the wheel for a few seconds without the boat doing anything wild. If this doesnt cure the problem then it is probably your skeg on the motor that is creating your problem. Mikey
                mike ross

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                • #9
                  Prop torque?

                  I always thought it was just the prop torque and the Yamatos not having a way to tighten the pivot housing like the old Mercurys. Jack McCourtie used to run a bungie on the right side steering bar on his Yamato 80 back in the eighties to off set the torque, any Yamato I ever ran, 80 or 102 on a runabout always had alot of pull to the left in the wheel, I also thought that was why a 10 foot boat was always to small for a 80, it's a freeking hand full.

                  Kerry

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                  • #10
                    I have had a somewhat similar problem but only when running a high rake cleaver prop on my CMH (500ModH) that I have and jack it up pretty high. I now have a new skeg on my lower unit which gives me a little more surface area so I plan to give it a try this spring. As a result of the lack of control, I don't run it very often even though it's a bit faster than my normal set up. Making it around the course is still an objective and there were times with the cleaver that the outcome was in doubt.

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for the tips. Steering is direct with 3.5 inch hub. As far as the turn fin
                      the fin 2 to 3 inch out of the water, is it still possible to have that much effect.

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                      • #12
                        Your problem is due to having direct sterring. All you can do is tie the rope super tight and tighten our nut down on the hub to offset the torch. It you go to the set up i described your troubles are over. You need the big hub so when you turn the wheel you get the same distance as your current set up. A small hub is used for direct and a big hub for indirect. Mikey
                        mike ross

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                        • #13
                          Mike,
                          I disagree - I say direct steering is much more responsive and easier to drive. I have indirect on a CMH boat I bought this summer and I am changing it over to direct. Even with direct steering in CSH, I can take my hand off the wheel, adjust my shield or whatever and I never worry about anything.

                          If your steering cables are loose when you hook up the motor, your motor tie down rope is loose or your friction nut on the steering wheel is not tight enough, you will fight it during the race.

                          If you tighten everything up, then you only have to man up and crank the wheel and usually when you go into a trun with 11 other CSH drivers, you have adrenalin to spare.
                          Brian 10s

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                          • #14
                            I have run my 80y on this boat and have nowhere near the same trouble.
                            thanks again for your opinions.

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                            • #15
                              The 80 has a less torque than a 102 or 302. Direct steering on a 20SSH is pretty common. Hardly anyone has direct in CSH. I was suprised to hear that Brian does it. It for sure can be done, but indirect steering with a big hub will give you the same feel and responsiveness as direct steering on the small hub.

                              Go indirert with a big hub that has a tension nut and tighten your motor down tight!

                              Just 2 cents

                              CSH12M



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