newb with seafleas

[edsrx3]

Intersting site!

I've never concidered them to be "real" hydo hulls, but these are the Seafleas I play with. Running stock Merc 20 and Evinrude 35 motors.

[WildBill5-A]

These are fun...I had one 40 years ago! Looks like the engines could stand to be out another notch to help pick up the bow.

[edsrx3]

Its always a balance on the trim! When I set the trim up one more, the hull porpoises unless I'm in a turn.

I try to set the transome, so I only Ventelate the prop on hard turns, big jumps and digs out of the hole. I set the trim as high as I can with out porpoising. I always need just a half a notch!

The set up changes when the fuel tank runs low or if the waves change. Even who runs the boats. My kids make these things fly much higher in the water!

Do the cutter props on the racing bottem ends trim out different than the fishing motor bottom ends?? How do you make the fine adjustments less than a full notch??

Thanks for the feed back!

[hydroid]

Half a notch

1) It's definitely not a "hydroplane" by definition, as the hull shape does not permit trapping air. It's a Minimost, many hydroplane pilots got their first rush(intoxication) as a youth in these, and moved up.
2) A tip I was given by an experienced racer to go up incrementally, without going to next pin hole. If the outside diameter(OD) of your pin is 1/4" purchase an aluminum tube with 3/8" ID, cut it to length to fit the inside distance between the mounting brackets where the pin is placed. As you push the pin through from bracket to bracket, use the tube as a sleeve over the pin bt the brackets. The sleeve might have a wall thickness of 1/16-1/8", you are going up the width of the wall, which will give you less of a kickout than going up to next pin hole, 1/4"+. Play w tubes of different wall thickness - solution is cheap and easy (the way I like my women).
3) Seems that Merc is sitting way too deep, creating ton of drag. Get your cavitation plate up as close w bottom of hull as you can. From 2nd picture looks like you could put a 1-1.5" shim under engine at transom, but experiment w 1/4-1/2" shim at a time. Other option is to replace transom, or have a strengthened aluminum extension, to add inches to the transon itself. Do this before spending $ on a prop.
4) BUT, spend $ on a kill switch - cheap. If you do #2 & 3, you'll pick up mph, and want to know it'll stop if(when) you get thrown('big jumps'). Especially, if your kids riding this. Not fun having boat circling around you and you're in water - I know, I filled my pants!!!
5) Get rid of the seat, put down hard foam cushion and kneel. Allows each driver to shift their weight back/frwrd based on balance dynamics(ie: trim, fuel, etc..), and whether planing(frwrd), or going wot(back).
6) Tie down the engine at back to lift handles(?), might dampen porpoising, if engine secure.
Enjoy!

[edsrx3]

I like the idea for the tubes for a part notch on the trim!! Need to try that.

The transom board slides up and down the aluminum channel so I can adjust the transom height by pulling a couple of bolts, shifting the transom board and either use differnet holes or drill new ones. Any time I try to run the motor any higher out of the water it pulls in air like crazy and just screams. I have trouble clearing the air. Any time a take a turn or hit a wave same thing and I have to throttle back to clear the air. On the 35 hp, I've trimmed back my fins to get better clear water to the prop. This one always frustrates me. I figure less motor in the water less drag. The fishing motor props don't like to run with a ball of air in them????

The 20 merc is a new hull last year. I lost 20 lbs with-out the foam and have the weight down to 65 lb before the bolt on stuff. This hull runs faster and handls way better, but definetely sits lower in the bow and pushes more water.

I'm letting the 20 hp motor rev way higher. When I pull out of the hole it will wind out and still hold a little air, if I drop the revs a bit or turn either way with a little jerk, the air clears, revs drop and I lose a little push. I run a 2 blade prop on the 20, it was originally cupped, but I've lost that after a few dings were removed with a file. I had a major improvement since a good filling a few years ago. I was clearly running too much prop for the motor.

All the boats have kill cords. The 20 is the only one with a seat, the 35 has only the 3/8 " wood between the water and my ass.

Interesting idea about tying the motor down. I didn't think there would be that much movement with the motor pushing hard. I've dealt with play in the steering with larger springs for the old cable and pulley system on the 20 hp. I've modified the leg hold down lock on the 20 hp because it locks in forward gear, as well as reverse. I Don't run these in reverse and want the motor to flip up if I hit something(like the beach). May have to revisit the lock down in forward.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm building a 3rd hull for a merc 10 hp set up. I used to run this set up before the 35 "rude". It was popular with the timid, the young before taking out the 20. It was also light, stable, and trouble free!

You guys must spend hours just on different set ups!!!!!!

I'm happy if I can get my silly little toys out to the like a half a dozen times a year!

Thanks for the reply!

[WildBill5-A]

Here's a winter project for that Merc 200...This cowling was the same blue/black merc color as yours (mine is a 1969), but I removed the stickers and paint from the wrap-around cowling and polished the aluminum. Stayed shiny like chrome all summer, with minimal polishing to refresh it. Merc used quality alumnum on these cowlings. Good for a 2 mph gain (eh, eh)

[Mark Monkres]

Had one when I was about 10, bought for $50.00, with my lawn money, put a 15HP Evinrude and ran 38 MPH, it was a hoot. I think they refer to as a Monohull