frame work

[JJJeffcoat]

i want to improve my blueprints and am asking everyone that have built for their opinion of my frame and spar setup. i personally think the spar should run all the way out to the sheeting. any other ideas or suggestions why this wouldn't be a good idea?
thanks, Jason

[MN1]

Looks good but run your solid wood rib all the way to the side of the boat.
It makes the boat a little stronger during crashes. Most guys need better bash plates than what the boats provide though!!!

The stringer at corner of the sponson bottom and non trip side. This stringer I usually put flat (same as the two middle stringers on the sponson bottom) and cut the non trip angle on one side. So it does two surfaces, the sponson bottom and the non trip side.
I usually run the tunnel wall plywood to the bottom of the deck but you don't have to.
Also one stringer is missing next to the capsule at the bottom. The top and bottom stringer next to capsule are very important ones. They need to be screwed and glued from the inside to the stringer.
Mark Nelson

[JJJeffcoat]

thank you so much for looking Mark. i really do appreciate your help. how about this. i took the solid rib to the outside skin, rotated the nontrip stringer flat with the sponson bottom, and added the stringer on the inside bottom @ the capsule. i do however have a few other questions.
does that little web cover the entire hole inside the sponson?
is there an advantage to the "gull wing" bottom?
do i have the screws located where you were saying?
and one other question. does the bolt connection look ok for the capsule? the bolt goes through the capsule, and the 6mm side (does not seem like enuogh).
again, thank you so much.
Jason

[MN1]

Jason,
From your drawing it looks like you have a capsule that is made like the first generation capsules. These are bolted and glued into an existing boat. Most new capsules now are built with composite from nose to transom and the boat is built around it.

When the capsule slides into the opening it should be a tight fit. You will do this before the decks are attached so you can through bolt it to the cockpit sides. Make sure the fit of the tunnel bottom plywood is perfect
around the capsule. Also some guys drop the capsule below the tunnel bottom. But this can affect the aero lift in the boat and it needs to be designed for this. I don't remember how many bolts I used on this type of capsule. But you do have one set of bolts that do two things. You have to install seat belts and the lap belt bolts thru the side of the capsule. If you had six bolts total and epoxy glue it would be fine.

On the gull wing - Billy Seebold made his boats this way back in the day but some builders are making (the pod) bigger now. You have to be careful with these because the bigger you make them the less volume you have at the rear of the boat, which means more air lift. The shape of the pod and capsule bottom and the volumes that they have in the tunnel affects the total air lift.

Web cover - Do you mean the plywood rib? Usually we do a round hole.

Frame 2 - Run the tunnel side up to get your air fence.

All Ribs - Add a 6mm plywood corner gusset at tunnel wall & tunnel bottom corner.
Thats all I can find for now.
Mark Nelson

[JJJeffcoat]

i can't thank you enough Mark. you have really helped me out on my quest for a great boat. guess the one nagging question i still have is does the solid wood rib go all the way from one side to the other side of the boat behind the capsule? and yes it is the older style capsule that is short.
by chance does anyone have and build pictures they would like to share? anyhting in this stage helps. plan, plan, plan. thanks again! Jason

[MN1]

Yes, on your type of capsule all solid wood ribs go from side to side except for maybe two. The two that don't are inside the cockpit under the driver.
There are at least two that go thru the capsule. The one at the front of the tunnel must go thru and the ones behind the driver, which is usually one.
The rib at the front of the tunnel can stop at the vert. tunnel wall side. It helps keep the tunnel together during hard turning.
I have pictures of two Seebold and one LaBanco capsule installs.
I'll try to post them for you, just need to find them.
Mark

[MN1]

Here are some photos that show my frame work on my Sport C boat.
The capsule in this boat is a Furnal but built in Florida by someone else.
Motts?
My boat has no pod, so I cut the bottom of the capsule off. It has a wood bottom under the driver. All ribs pass thru the capsule.
I'll look tomorrow for the other photos.
Mark

[MN1]

And one after it's done.

[MN1]

This is a Carlson SST 60 boat that was one of the first 60 boats built. I converted it to an 120 boat for Chucky Z to drive. Added a Seebold capsule and rear cowling. Lots and lots of work!!!
Mark Nelson

[MN1]

This F 100 boat was Bob Follweilers from PA. It had a LaBanco capsule and cowling's installed, plus a lot of other work to the sponsons.
Mark

[Patrick]

Framework

Jason,

I've attached a pic of the framework for our SST-60 built by Matt Arlt (Arltralite) that supports what Mark has recommended. You can also see the jig system that ensures an absolutely square and straight hull construction.

Pat Kants

[JJJeffcoat]

progress

your guys rock! here was my first pass. this helped me pan out a minute mistake on my prints. it is a true 3d AutoCad model. i will be going back and making a few modifications tonight. going to somehow add the little edge around the outside of the sponson. once ive got the "main" shape of the boat down im going to make each piece of wood 3d and solid. this is not the updated model though. ill have to take the sections that ive been building from your suggestions and make the final model. i cant thank you guys enough.
Jason

[JJJeffcoat]

and the start of the true frame model

[Patrick]

Framework

Jason,

Nice job on the auto-CAD. With 9 frame members it looks like you are going with an SST-120. Our SST-60 has 7 frames and an SST-45 would be 6 frames which all include the transom frame. We used 6 mm 5-ply marine for the sponson pads, inside tunnel walls and tunnel roof. Everything else was 4 mm. For stringers you have the option of sugar pine or sitka spruce which is more expensive but well worth the extra. Reinforce key stress points with 6 oz carbon fiber cloth. I have molds for sponson tips if you are interested.

Pat

[JJJeffcoat]

thanks Pat. it is a SST-120. i really appreciate the responce. you answered one of my lingering questions (what wood for the structural). very good tip about the carbon fiber. never thought about that. not to get off my topic, but how hard would it be to make this boat a SST-60? i wold trade plans for anyone that has an extra set. guess you could say im a collector of blueprints and drawings. thanks guys!

Jason,

Nice job on the auto-CAD. With 9 frame members it looks like you are going with an SST-120. Our SST-60 has 7 frames and an SST-45 would be 6 frames which all include the transom frame. We used 6 mm 5-ply marine for the sponson pads, inside tunnel walls and tunnel roof. Everything else was 4 mm. For stringers you have the option of sugar pine or sitka spruce which is more expensive but well worth the extra. Reinforce key stress points with 6 oz carbon fiber cloth. I have molds for sponson tips if you are interested.

Pat