Blown motor is close to done:

[Jerkizoid]

A little at a time is the plan

Italian PROP is in the mail tomarrow from SC plus the final engine piece. Now, I need carb linkage, the rebuild on the 660s has started. I think I will try one by one on the cruiser to dial them in. Rich has his motor going in any day!
And, instead of ording a new one, an aquamet 22 prop shaft has been located nearby.

Still hoping to get the Chevelle home real soon and it has priority over boat racing, so does my Grand daughters first car.

Boat racing has preoccupied my every waking hour for 9 years now, and that must change. Family is more important!

[Altered Thoughts]

carb linkage

I still have some stuff you might be able to use, if I come that way I'll bring over or come over. Jim

[Jerkizoid]

Thank you Jim, youare the best! Prices were very affordable! Now need gears, 22,25,27s?

[Jerkizoid]

Update Shark

Now that school has started, I have more hours to work on her:

Current shots of final coats of filler and blueprinting work to duplicate the bottom profile from side to side.

[Jerkizoid]

rocker shape: Shark= Wickens with rocker (Mr. Orrin) mold builder!

Due to the area of repair where new balsa and mat was reinstalled, I had to check the bottom profile and what was left of rocker on that left (pass) side. Right side if its upside dwn as pictured.
Lower above shot shows marks evry 2 inches where rocker was checked. For every four feet, (yellow straight edge) this hull had 220/1000" of rocker. That's adding the thickness of the Tsquare plus the 'S' or paint stick abbreviation. Did I loose anyone? Stir stick was wedged into the front of the straight edge and T square at the other end. This may not work for others but this hull at the cav plate edge was ground down the width of that Tsquare so I left it to fill this area so I could see the contour and know where to grind.
Simply add these two thickness measuremens to get total rocker for ever 4'. I also discovered the rocker crown or 'biggestbump' where the stick pivots or rocks,starts in a different place side to side. If I had left those marks on the bottom, it would form a triangle with the most rocker being close to the chines and the narrow triagle point be near the center and almost up to the whip strut. Very similar to our Lavey's concave bottom! Too complicated for a jerk so lets just say, I tried to figure where to grind my repair patch. Thanks again Larry fro Nordic boats and his son Marc for glass 101!

[Jerkizoid]

Pictures:

Tell more than words, slurred ones at best. Framing-Square on end shows high and low spots with light shining from the other side. I took any gull (convex shape) out of this larger repaired area since the other side had none. Forward to this area, is 1/4 inch of gull that increases to almost 1/2". Sharpening strakes and adding fin is also happening. Note: 5 layers of mat-cloth, and 6 layers of filler. Not done yet.

[Jerkizoid]

Products

Vinyl Ester Resin: Stronger, more water resistant, and the latest and greatest! NO one up here knew anything about it, had to go online!

[Jerkizoid]

So

Who wants to know what the 2 oz syringe is for? Mix the epoxe right inside and inject into veins! Stops ALL itching!

[Jerkizoid]

I submit this for approval to the Glass Gods of the Net!

Dont know if this repair will work, time will tell but the hammer sound is now solid sounding instead of bouncing into your snozzola! What say you all? At least its not a Flower Pot hull anymore! I wonder how many others could have been saved with a little effort?? K57 will fly again, without flapping its wings of loose fiberglass.....

[Jerkizoid]

Sorry

Here are the before pictures, I could not get to due to puter problems:

[Jerkizoid]

More


This shot shows the color layers as found: Black is some sort of final gel sealer or primer I guess was used to cancell any transparency in the thin glass places. Next is a green yellow color which is the second to last coat. Then the gold metal flake which will be restored on the sides and bottom, and of course the last unseen one is clear coat about 7 mils thick. Care must be taken to not sand to much or the edges of the flake can be damaged and cause splotchy areas. Then more flake must be applied as I did on the transom.

[Jerkizoid]

Just for Fun


Everyone gives me hell for using plumbers Goop as sold in any hardware store. Here you see a plastic Dolphin attached to the sharp edge of the rudder. Why? I can go testing and not tear it loose! It's amazing glue and is partially the reason our boats always finished heats. Every critical electric connection is air tight and vibration proof with one drop of this stuff! Holes in bottoms can be easily repaired and LOOK like fiberglass repair.
Last year a fuel leak was found in someones too thin alum gas tank and it held! For a year! Good stuff $3.90. Outboards could also use this to fix almost anything!
A well know Marine Mechanical shop recently confirmed, it holds bilge pump mounting brackets without screws!!! Right Brent? Many other uses can be found especially around the house.

One veteran builder said, "I dont like the fact it can't be bought in a larger dispenser like a caulk tube"! Dont take my word for it, but it works!

[flatrat]

Tell more than words, slurred ones at best. Framing-Square on end shows high and low spots with light shining from the other side. I took any gull (convex shape) out of this larger repaired area since the other side had none. Forward to this area, is 1/4 inch of gull that increases to almost 1/2". Sharpening strakes and adding fin is also happening. Note: 5 layers of mat-cloth, and 6 layers of filler. Not done yet.

See ya found flipper...lookin' good

[Jerkizoid]

Smack

talk from this guy:


Whoa! Fruit of the Loom check. Was he just looking for an accident or just slow to reach the pedals? Donno

[flatrat]

Wowzers,
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