What are my options? 44 mod pistons

[ZUL8TR]

Thanks.. I guess I need to open up just a fraction.. What do they say loose is fast..

Only loose enough to be just below the "thare she blows". When my brother ran stock cars on oval track he clearanced the pistons way over the recommended limit, they thought he was nuts until he was in front of them. But he did say engine life was shortened. He was running big block chevies. To win some reliability needs to go but let it last at least the season? Jerry Weinandt would have some real good advice on clearance for the 44 stock and mod

For the exact Brinkman statement see page 1

http://www.boatsport.org/PDF/Brinkman2.pdf

[blueskyracer]

That was great read.. I have now opened the holes to the top end for a dry filler and have got the hone for final pattern on its way.. Bob is reworking Vertex pistons and hopefully everything is coming together.. I also have a new set of Sierra pistons so I hope to be ready this year.

On another note the Brinkman read is great.. Can anyone fill me in on the history of this guy?

[blueskyracer]

Ok while I was sitting in the chair just looking over the engine I notice two open holes that lead to the reed cages.. My question (see photos) is should these be plugged.. If so then I guess it was another issue I was fighting.. I did notice on a newer block that I have laying around that it had raised bosses with two plastic elbows and a hose attached between the fittings form these two holes..

[ZUL8TR]

That was great read.. I have now opened the holes to the top end for a dry filler and have got the hone for final pattern on its way.. Bob is reworking Vertex pistons and hopefully everything is coming together.. I also have a new set of Sierra pistons so I hope to be ready this year.

On another note the Brinkman read is great.. Can anyone fill me in on the history of this guy?

Here is a little bit on Harry just scroll down some

http://www.quincylooperracing.us/gpage5.html

Other information can be obtained with Google using - Harry Brinkman boat racer

[PROPDOC]

Ok while I was sitting in the chair just looking over the engine I notice two open holes that lead to the reed cages.. My question (see photos) is should these be plugged.. If so then I guess it was another issue I was fighting.. I did notice on a newer block that I have laying around that it had raised bosses with two plastic elbows and a hose attached between the fittings form these two holes..

Yes. Those should be plugged. They are oil return holes for normal operation on the stock fishing motor. We do not need them for mod racing. If you were running this motor with them open then this was most likely your cause for sticking pistons. As this would cause your motor to run extremely lean.

[blueskyracer]

I figured as much.. I will say till it stuck pistons it was extremely fast.. They are plugged now.. Thanks Gardner

[PROPDOC]

You're welcome. I wish you a better season this year.

[mercguy]

Yes. Those should be plugged. They are oil return holes for normal operation on the stock fishing motor. We do not need them for mod racing. If you were running this motor with them open then this was most likely your cause for sticking pistons. As this would cause your motor to run extremely lean.

those holes (and fittings) are not for oil.............they are where the balance tube hose goes for crankcase pressure equalization.....if someone did not plug those holes, the motor would run like crap at lower speeds and you would hear crankcase compression pressure blowing out the holes....plug em..........

[blueskyracer]

I always wondered why there was the extra hole in the reed blocks.. They are now plugged with 1/8 pipe plugs

[trident]

Two options, plug them or run the balance tube. On a Mod, I recommend plugging them. I don't care if it trolls.

Running open? NEVER.

I DO recommend running a check valve (outie) in a small oiler line from the bottom bearing cap to the top bearing cap, just like on the 44XS and a multitude of other modern motors... that flushes oil out from below the bottom bearing and pumps it up to rain down through the top bearing. It won't completely stop the fret rust and crap from forming between the crank and bearings, but it does flush the toilet...

Jerry Wienandt

[ZUL8TR]

Jerry for that check valve oilier system you note I have that on my 25ss engine with the bottom check valve and the top bearing fitting and it also includes a tee fitting attached to the hose that goes from bottom to top bearing fittings. The tee is in the top cylinder crank case air flow to the piston. Does the 44 oiler system use the tee fitting?

[blueskyracer]

Well I now have finished the last motor.. I would like to say thank you for the help from Bob Dunlap with the Vertex pistons and all the posts on this thread.. I guess we will see what happens Memorial Weekend.. We have four fresh motors to work with but it will be a slow break in process..

[trident]

On that oiler line, No the 44XS does not use a tee... its a straight tube bottom to top. It is an 'outie' checkvalve at the bottom bearing and a through fitting (no check valve) 'innie' to the top bearing. The crankcase pulses send drops of oil up the line from below the bottom bearing, to come in above and rain down through the top bearing.

This system is used on lots of motors, OEM. Of course, the 44XS has it, my 650XS' have it, my SST120's had it, my SST140's had it, my Mod 44's had it and I remachined and added it to our 30 and 40 Merc Mods... On some early blocks, the top boss is already there, its just undrilled...

If you are drilling the top cap to bring oil in, locate that hole below the O-ring and the hole should come in just above the bearing, then grind a tiny passage (its cast in on some caps) to let the oil pass above the bearing, between the bearing and top seal.

[blueskyracer]

If you look at the third picture the oil system Jerry is talking about was added to this engine after Jerry sent me pictures and talked me thru the process

[trident]

Yup, the 44XS fittings use a very tiny hose, and even if you use a larger hose, the fitting ID only needs to be #52 drill... we want a flow, but not a flood.

On older motors, where I had a larger check valve fitting, I inserted a restrictor to meter it down. A tiny brass tube inserted in the nipple works.