Steering bar geometry

[proprider]

When fabricating a steering bar, where should the holes for the pulley clamps go in relation to the downhousing swivel pin? Forward, even, aft? Trying to keep tension in the cable throughout the entire range of steering.
Thanks
Joe

[G Stillwill]

The holes in the end of the bar should line up with the swivel pin, in other words if you were to put a streight edge across the holes in the bar ends it should go right through the center of the swivel pin.

[proprider]

Thanks

Thanks George, appreciate the feedback.

[jeff55v]

The holes in the end of the bar should line up with the swivel pin, in other words if you were to put a streight edge across the holes in the bar ends it should go right through the center of the swivel pin.

George is correct.
The reason for the need to have the holes in the ends of the steering bar line up with the swivel pin is to keep even tension on your steering cables. If the holes do not line up with the swivel pin, it will cause your steering cables to loosen or tighten as you turn the motor.

[johnsonm50]

I agree,, but add that since the distance between cables shortens at the steer bar while turning, the steer bar should be slightly wider than the coaming pulleys. [close to paralell at cable spread but slightly more aft]. I also look at the tilt and try to get close [not always possible and not that critical]

[proprider]

Clarify

Are you saying that the steering bar width should be slightly wider than the cockpit sides? I made mine quite a bit wider than the cockpit with the thought of better leverage. Can this be causing additional slack when forced to make a tight turn? I want to achieve tension on the cables throughout the entire turning ratio. I run a 5" spool as well.
Thanks for the help.
Joe

[johnsonm50]

Are you saying that the steering bar width should be slightly wider than the cockpit sides? I made mine quite a bit wider than the cockpit with the thought of better leverage. Can this be causing additional slack when forced to make a tight turn? I want to achieve tension on the cables throughout the entire turning ratio. I run a 5" spool as well.
Thanks for the help.
Joe

Yes, that probly is why, the good news is it can be shortened. At the pivot of the swivel bracket there is some room for play [as much as there is space between the steer bar and its pulley]. If you shorten It then the angle of the bar might still be ok. When it works well with no springs needed its at its best. I also use a 5 in spool and like it, the wheel resistance isnt much more than the 3 1/2 but Im running under 40hp & tied back.

[johnsonm50]

I ve been thinkin more about this Joe, A good way to find the placment of where it will work is to wrap the cable ends around the bar the same distance out ea. Put little spring-sqweeze clamps on to lock then move the system to see where its good before drillin & cutin. Youll get a good idea where then. I also went out to look at my boat, [about 3 steer bars later] it works good, no springs. The turn range is about 35 degrees each way from straight. the rear spread of the cables is 1 inch more than the front and it operates smoothly to the end when that side of the bar points nearly straight forward. I wish ya luck, Mike

[proprider]

Thanks

Thanks Mike, I'll give that a try this evening. Appreciate your effort of checking this out for me. Just wanting to be safe on the coarse.