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I have heard that you can apply one coat of west and before it dries you can apply another? Has anybody done this and how long do you have to wait to put another coat on? Can you put more than 2 coats on like this??
Kevin
"I would rather lose going fast enough to win than win going slow enough to lose."sigpic
Epoxy resin exists in three basic states - liquid, gelled, and hard. After the resin gels, as in not liquid but can be dented with your fingernail, you can roll on another coat. And let that gel and roll on yet another coat. If you let it harden, no fingernail denting, you should wash the resin to get rid of amine blush and sand it before attempting to recoat.
Reason: fresh resin on top of gelled but not hard resin will chemically bond = good. Resin on top of hard resin mechanically bonds so it will need "tooth" as in sanding scratchs to bond to the hardened layer.
If you want baby butt smooth, this works decent most of the time. Pour on a coat using a plastic squeegy to force it into the wood, scrape it in long even strokes from front to back and scrape all excess off. The eposy resin should look dry, but it is wet. Then Roll on, not with West Rollers, a heavier coat and let dry. This should give you the shine and smooth coat. Be sure to make the rolled on coat heavy enough to blow out evenly or you will get dry spots.
Rollers, I use these small rollers that are 3". They are called Shurfine I believe. They are not foam. No nap on them really. They allow for some pretty decent results. The worst finish I find is the West Roller covers. Always leaves a rough finish. Some other rollers I use are normal paint roller covers, small nap. These do an okay job, just not as good as the little ones.
One thing to keep in mind it that coat after coat adds weight. It also doesn't level out the raised grain that the wetting will cause. I like to roll on a thin coat as the sealer. I just get black foam rolllers from the hardware store and cut them in thirds on the band saw. If you work effeciently, you can roll a coat over the whole top of a hydro on one roller. I also cut the short tubes lengthwise in quarters. I hold one of these in a spring clamp and tip off the bubbles that the roller leaves. I prefer to let each coat cure and then sand it. I think that you wind up with a better finish quicker than adding more and more.
Eric VanOver ran his new D hydro for a year or two just as it left the shop. Not many people realized that it wasn't a sanded, clearcoated boat. With a little bit of work and a few hints from everybody, it will be easy.
[QUOTE=Eric VanOver ran his new D hydro for a year or two just as it left the shop. Not many people realized that it wasn't a sanded, clearcoated boat. With a little bit of work and a few hints from everybody, it will be easy.
Steve Roskowski[/QUOTE]
Ran my 15ssH hydro for years with nothing but WEST on the surface. I kinda went funky after a year or so, sanded, WEST, ran it! Only thing painted on the boat was the number pads.
I by no means recommend leaving it uncoated. Unless you add some UV inhibitors, I believe that all epoxies will degrade with time in not coated. I was just letting guys know that it is possible to put on epoxy with cheap applicators and get good results. I was just offering up another method that may help guys out.
I by no means recommend leaving it uncoated. Unless you add some UV inhibitors, I believe that all epoxies will degrade with time in not coated. I was just letting guys know that it is possible to put on epoxy with cheap applicators and get good results. I was just offering up another method that may help guys out.
Steve Roskowski
I agree. Mine was left uncoated for many reasons - no time for paint before the Nats, had to rig the boat and paint #s on it at t5he Nats, and after that - lazy, just plain lazy. Finish went ugly, ran it ugly, than sand and recoat, still no varnish or paint! Since I sanded the #s off I used duct tape Xs. Retaped the Xs after the sun degraded the tape so much it was all crinkly and shedding bits. Boat was ugly but fast. I liked it
I recommend the new West System 207 Hardener. It can be used with your 105 Resin, but it's a different ratio (1:3 vs 1:5). They have pumps for them. Anyway, the new 207 hardener has UV inhibitors in it and also lays down way better than the 105/205. The new 207 is made just for clear finishes.
Also, I agree on the use of a very short nap roller.
And to answer your intial question, I agree with Bill H. OK to add layers in the gel state.
I have to agree with Bill..
The 207 is nice stuff.. ...Although I think it sould be said that they..(West Systems) does recomend you finish it with a high end marine paint or varnish for "long term" UV protection.
If you want the epoxy nice and smooth you can also try a 3" foam brush. I spread epoxy on one side of the boat with a roller, next I use the foam brush and smooth out the rough suface. It takes an extra 5 min but it is worth it, you will thank youself when it is time to sand for paint or you could leave it natural. This gives you a nice thin even coat. You can also THIN epoxy to get a smooth natural look surface.
Thanks guys for the tips. I think I will put one coat on the bare wood to raise the grain and then sand. Then I will try to put two coats on using the finger nail method. Thanks again.
Kevin
"I would rather lose going fast enough to win than win going slow enough to lose."sigpic
Doesn't anybody use those throw away paint pads but me. They sure laydown a smooth coat of West, varnish or paint. Make sure you blow away any loose hairs before using.
Never tried it, but thought about it. Will give it a try. What brand type of pads have you tried ? I always look for the time savers... if I can coat the boat one time and be done, that is one days worth of heat saved in the shop ! Also leaves time for making other parts. Some times the little rollers I use hang up on the cage, and it is like a paint pad, it works well, so your idea really makes me want to try it. Thanks !!!
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