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I've got a boat down to raw wood. I am intertaining staining this before west system. Any tricks or pitfall to this? also filling any gaps> west syst before or just wood filler. I will most likely be adding paint over most of the seams at a later date,however I kind of like the look of the brass nails. Kind of a new wave retro look. Thanks for imput.
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Steve,
If there is any left-over glue or West System IN the wood near seams or joints, it won't take the stain in the same degree as the very porous wood. Even if you sanded it and it appears to be bare wood, the glue/west will have filled the pores and it will take stain unevenly. It'll be splotchy. Only thing most of us can do is be very careful when glueing up....particularly putting skins on decks/bottoms. I appologize in advance if this is old information or otherwise very intuitive to you or other readers. Mike Marshall, Raceboat61-S -
Steve, You are going to get a lot of help here. However, This is what I do, buy a small can of stain of tint that you like. Then on a scrape piece of wood apply the stain. Wipe it off with a clean dry dust free rag. Let it dry and then apply epoxy or varnish. if you like what you see good. If you do not then try again and leave the stain on a little longer before wiping and repeat the epoxy process etc. If you still not happy then buy another tint stain and repeat test. If you are happy with the test piece then buy a larger can of stain and go for it. A good filler is wood flower and epoxy mix. Not sawdust but wood flower. It is Mahogany in color. West and System 3 sell it and it is inexpensive. Have fun.bill bComment
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Yep - test . . .
and test on a rarely viewed part of your sanded hull to see how well the stain "takes" because raceboat61s is right, WEST resin, if thats what the boat was coated with from the get-go, seeps into pores and will prevent normal staining action.carpetbaggerComment
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Good advice above.Avoid oil based stains if possible.Epoxy will not adhere well to oil based stains and will tend to "fish eye" when applying and not penetrate well. Water based and alcohol based stains are best with epoxy and are recommended by the Gougeon Bros. I've used a water based stain made by Lockwood's for many years on new construction and restorations with good results. (W.D. Lockwood & Co.,Inc.81-83 Franklin St., New York,NY 10013). When using a stain it's useful to apply at least 2 or preferably 3 coats "back to back" PER INSTRUCTIONS without sanding between to help avoid cutting through to the stain when sanding.
http://hometown.aol.com/stewsill/Comet.htmlComment
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Ooooo, nice job, Stew . . .
Pretty boat. I could get all in the mood to restore a Speedliner hull, first real raceboat I saw and drooled over. That was before the Merc 20H had an exhaust conversion AKA Thundermug AKA toilet bowl.carpetbaggerComment
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Stained boats
This thread made me remember one of my favorite race boats in my past. (hmmm..might be a good idea for a thread?)
Somebody as old as me has to remember a runabout that was stained green with yellow lettering on the side that said, "Rolling Rock Express". I think it was a BSR in the 70's up in Michigan. I would love to know more about that boat, it sure was cool. Does anyone have any info or a pic?Comment
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Stain & Bleach
We had a really nice stained BSR boat up here once owned by Dennis Wytrowski (sp) called Color My World. A dark stain with rainbow pin stripping. I think it was a Hansen Hull or a copy.
Of course Carl Stippich made bleaching wood an art.
Warbs64*WComment
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Originally posted by Jeff Brewster 59s
That was an "B" Austin owned by Lou Betka. One of the famous Wild One's gang. I loved that boat also."Ask anyone, I have no friends. I do have some people that put up with me and mostly because they like the rest of my family"
Don AllenComment
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