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Cone nut stuck!

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  • Cone nut stuck!

    Anybody have any tips or tricks for getting a rock solid frozen/corroded cone nut for a/b foot to let go?
    also I figure I’d ask if anybody has a 30h driveshaft that they want to cut loose of before I order a new one.

  • #2

    Of course you know it is righty loosy lefty tighty. Are you using the Mercury cone tool and a 18" long 1/2" drive breaker bar? Could be more than corrosion resisting you because the manual says to use loctite when installing the cone and previous installer did that? I never use loctite on the cone just #2 grease with moly (MDS) on threads never came loose in huge number of races and testing. Maybe a short burst of heat on the outside of the gear case where the inner threads are to attempt to just slightly expand the gear case aluminum not the cone and have the removal tool ready to torque off? Get some really good penetrating lube like Kroil and use with the heat application. Good luck wrenching.
    "Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
    No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.


    • #3
      I fear Loctite or something along those lines. This foot is one that I acquired a cpl years ago and had yet to look inside. I’ll give her some temperature and see what comes of it.


      • #4
        Some heat and probably what more likely freed it up was me actually putting some “umff” into it. I think I was part fearful, and not 100% sure on rotation and you set me straight. Thank you, ZU!!!!!


        • ZUL8TR
          ZUL8TR commented
          Editing a comment
          Great that it freed up with no damage, heat + umff! and righty loosy off to the rescue!

          Interested of condition if you are planning to pull the prop shaft and water pump cartridge to replace the large O ring (there are 2 types different cross section dims) and the CR 5522 seal in the water pump cartridge and inspect the gears? Does this gear case have the bushed cone with no bearings and no seals or the one with the needle bearings in the inner cone with 2 CR5522 seals? If the latter replace those seals and inspect the bearings for pit and rust. Does the prop shaft have rust or pitting corrosion where those cone bearings run then you probably need a prop shaft and bearings (they are GB98 not B98). Does the drive shaft at the top seal pilot have corrosion? If so the seal probably bad, needs replace and drive shaft seal area needs dressing or new shaft. This drive shaft seal is a CR odd ball number and NLA - there are substitutions available, also that drive shaft bearing might need replace. These parts are available ask where if needed.

          Use the grease noted in my #2 post above on the cone threads for reinstall, manual says 100 ft lbs (IMO too much) on my 25ss I use 75 ft lbs and never had a problem with lots of races and testing. I put a sharpie mark across the cone and gear case tail for a quick view tell tale cone never moved unless wrenched off. After use I loosen the cone and regrease the cone bearings and leave cone loose until use, saves threads. Since new in 1973 my 25ss has same cone, ball and roller bearings, gears, prop and drive shafts, just seals and impellors replaced thru the years. Always used gear oil not that 105 grease PITA to remove, preferred synthetic 75w-90 gear oil presently been using Royal Purple Max Gear. I change after each use, oil is cheaper than parts especially these very costly Quicki cases. I use John Deere Corn head grease in the outer cone bearings best I found so far for positive rolling not skid on the GB98 inner cone roller bearings.

          Happy wrenching