Hi, new racer is asking me for typical hull dims for CSH hull. He's a bigger guy if that makes any diff in the numbers. Anyone willing to share numbers?Thanks, Andrew
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Typical CSH Hulls nubmers for bigger guy.
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He wants to know if he can get away with running the class as he thinks DSH is too fast for him to race and have fun. He has lake running experience with Hydros. Also wants to know if a boat he already owns is suitable to get started with and see if he likes racing. He's tried a 25XS and felt he was too heavy for it... so he doesn't want to spend on CSH stuff if it will be too small too. Also doesnt want to waste the time altering the transom on what he has if it's not suitable. I've mention CSR to him too as an option.
- what's the rough body weight limit to be competitive in CSH with average boat (ie not full composite)
- how wide are the bottoms
- what is the afterplane
- steering wheel distance from the transom
- lift
Thanks!
Fralick Racing
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Andrew, Kris & I fluctuate at 200# +/- 10# beer & pizza factor over winter; easy to add/remove 10# lead in spring to come in at 440#.
Stats:
- Me: 200, boat @ 125, Y302 @ 95, safety @ 15: 435 + 6# lead: 441#, Kcraft: 36" wide, 72 a/p
- Kris: 210, 115, 95, 15: +/- lead: 441#, Spencer CSH, 37" wide, 76 a/p, more lift than my boat
I'd say @ 220# one could still be competitive with a light boat, but tough to find CSH lighter than 110# without built with carbon($$$).Even at 450# all-in, a good driver nailing starts & driving strategically can do well. As all-in weight creeps over 450#, gravity/drag work exponentially against you, acceleration & lift suffer. And if you flip/roll, you'll do more damage going through the sides.
Conversely as a light driver, I wouldn't put more than 20# into a boat(12-15 at transom, 5-8 at steering wheel) for fear of forces ripping boat apart when you flip/roll.Last edited by hydroid; 11-07-2016, 11:52 AM.
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Thanks guys!
I don't know how the heck you reply to a comment above... LOL.Fralick Racing
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I've raced CSH for some time now, at 1st old boats, always bringing up the rear. I'm about 215 so suited up more like 235. Add a little water walking to the boat & more if you get hosed I'd guess that to be 245+ That + a 90lb motor leaves about 100 to105lbs for the boat. That can be done no problem with carbon fiber. It would be hard to build a wood boat at that weight strong enough for a heavy driver, not that you can't do well heavy, some do -very well. For me getting a used carbon fiber boat & going to a 302 helped put me in the race & it wasn't too expensive. New CF is going to cost alot but for those that want it I think its a good way to go. As for the fun of it I say give it a try, don't worry about where you place just go. If you have a boat you know you can drive try to borrow a C motor & go for it. If you like it you can always step up the equipment as you go. The driving school option is also a great way to try if you are close enough to a club doing a C class. Like said above too CSR weight is more.Team Tower
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