Same boat for 2014

[johnsonm50]

The new boats for 2014 thread is cool & informative but I'd guess many of us will be racing the same boat as last year. To start I've raced 3 CSH boats, all used. My latest I've done the best in & hope to get a season or 2 more out of it.
It's mostly a composit boat, for that as a build material, I'm impressed by it's strength. My boat however is a little ruff on the 'cosmo' side & I'd like to strip & repaint it. I also have to become sponson tip compliant so I'm testing paint remover on the tips.
I hope this thread serves to ask & answer questions about repairs, refinishes, rehardwaring etc.

My 1st question is will paint remover affect the composite or epoxy adversely?

Sanding would be tuff because its too easy to oversand & cut into the carbon fibre. It's got automotive paint on grey primer with some bondo & nitro stan to deal with. Lucky for me I worked 7 years as in autobody so can refinish fairly well.

[Yellowjacket]

My 1st question is will paint remover affect the composite or epoxy adversely?

Sanding would be tuff because its too easy to oversand & cut into the carbon fibre. It's got automotive paint on grey primer with some bondo & nitro stan to deal with. Lucky for me I worked 7 years as in autobody so can refinish fairly well.

The short answer is absolutely and you have to be careful. I did some varnish stripping off of epoxy, and it worked OK, but there are caveats.

First is you need to use a stripper that is branded as "safe for fiberglass". If you use the "Aircraft" brand stripper that is available from the auto supply stores it will absolutely damage the epoxy and you could easily ruin your boat, or end up with a lot of repair work.

I used Interlux stripper that is labeled as "safe for fiberglass" but did have a couple of problems. The first is that in two or three places, an area the size of your little fingernail was damaged by the remover. I didn't use their "neutralizer" and probably should have. They warn you that if you leave the stuff on too long it can damage the epoxy, and they are right. If the stuff stays on too long you will get softening of the epoxy, and it will become porous and you will see the weave where it has soaked up the stripper in the cloth.

Also if you are doing the decks you need to mask at the edges with something like packaging tape, and when you are done, peel off the tape and make sure you clean the area where the tape was so that you don't leave any residual stripper on the epoxy anywhere. The reason you need to mask the edges is that if any of the stuff dribbles down the bottom and you don't get it cleaned off it will make soft spot in the epoxy. Don't ask me how I know about that one...

I've had better luck using a heat gun and a putty knife to strip off polyurethanes, but I can understand why you might not want to do that. I was stripping plywood and stripping paint off of epoxy is a different thing.

[johnsonm50]

The short answer is absolutely and you have to be careful. I did some varnish stripping off of epoxy, and it worked OK, but there are caveats.

First is you need to use a stripper that is branded as "safe for fiberglass". If you use the "Aircraft" brand stripper that is available from the auto supply stores it will absolutely damage the epoxy and you could easily ruin your boat, or end up with a lot of repair work.

I used Interlux stripper that is labeled as "safe for fiberglass" but did have a couple of problems. The first is that in two or three places, an area the size of your little fingernail was damaged by the remover. I didn't use their "neutralizer" and probably should have. They warn you that if you leave the stuff on too long it can damage the epoxy, and they are right. If the stuff stays on too long you will get softening of the epoxy, and it will become porous and you will see the weave where it has soaked up the stripper in the cloth.

Also if you are doing the decks you need to mask at the edges with something like packaging tape, and when you are done, peel off the tape and make sure you clean the area where the tape was so that you don't leave any residual stripper on the epoxy anywhere. The reason you need to mask the edges is that if any of the stuff dribbles down the bottom and you don't get it cleaned off it will make soft spot in the epoxy. Don't ask me how I know about that one...

I've had better luck using a heat gun and a putty knife to strip off polyurethanes, but I can understand why you might not want to do that. I was stripping plywood and stripping paint off of epoxy is a different thing.

Thanks Yellowjacket, I did a paint removal from a wood boat w/heat, slow but steady it was. Think I'll try it before going the chemical route, got all winter.

[Shane_B]

When I refinished an boat, I initially used an orange stripper as it did not remove the epoxy - however, since all epoxys are not 'equal,' would be very cautious using any stripper and test on inconspicuous/non critical piece first before applying to entire hull. Another route to go is using old 'English' wood scrapers to strip off paint... if honed/burnished properly, these scrapers will remove paint very quickly and precisely (these scrapers are what violin makers use instead of sandpaper - removes wood without filling in pores). Once you get practiced with the scrapers, they are remarkable tools (but do take a practiced hand to use to max efficiency). Traditional Woodworker.com carries several - http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com.../products/236/ - I am partial to the German Two Cherries brand as the steel is phenomenal quality. Best of luck - keep us posted on your efforts!

[Dave M]

Jmo

Just my opinion, but I would sand it and avoid the chemicals. If you plan to repaint it, you don't need to get it all off. This would save any woes from chemicals damaging spots, and adding more work. I sand the epoxy before painting and or clear coat. I would think if you use a random orbit sander and 120 grit you will need to really hold it on the spot for it to get through the epoxy. If it was West System you should be fine. I think 200 grit is as fine as I go on epoxy to apply clear coat or paint.

Have fun with your project !

[Bill Huson]

carbide scrapers . . .

I have two, both with replaceable blades. When it comes to shaving off old paint they kick royal patootie. I also use them o shave down lumpy epoxy rather than sanding = less dust and quicker.

Correct tip about avoiding "aircraft" stripper. That juice will remove anything that is not metal.

[Top Gun 3-Z]

tip

We used airplane stripper once and the stuff must of got into the wood .Every time we put the boat in the sun the paint would bubble up.My father is a fourth generation paint and body man .When he saw the boat he new exactly what caused it . So be carefull or use the trusty old sander. Good luck .

[johnsonm50]

What concerns me is the several things I noticed when working on it of different compositions. I'm going to go no stripper on it take it down all the way, base coat it w/ West & do what it takes to put a decent look on it. The scraper ideas I use regularly & agree that when you get it right its awesome.. just needs elbow grease.

[doc 35-0]

I'm working on removing silicone which was used to glue a knee pad. The pad held water and could harm the floor. Years ago, we could remove the board. The silicone is difficult to remove. I did not try heat. Sanding has taken many hours. I should try a scraper. We have switch to a vinyl covered pad that can be removed after use which allows drying of the floor. We use snaps that are attached to the side. I plan to coat the flooring with west or a epoxy paint.

[Yellowjacket]

I'm working on removing silicone which was used to glue a knee pad. The pad held water and could harm the floor. Years ago, we could remove the board. The silicone is difficult to remove. I did not try heat. Sanding has taken many hours. I should try a scraper. We have switch to a vinyl covered pad that can be removed after use which allows drying of the floor. We use snaps that are attached to the side. I plan to coat the flooring with west or a epoxy paint.

Most silicones dissolve with things like lacquer thinner or gasoline. They tolerate heat pretty well so you may not have much luck with a heat gun. Sanding would be pretty difficult since the silicone is rubbery and it won't sand very well. I'd be using something that would eat it up, like thinner or straight gasoline or alcohol and you should be able to wipe it right off.

[johnsonm50]

Most silicones dissolve with things like lacquer thinner or gasoline. They tolerate heat pretty well so you may not have much luck with a heat gun. Sanding would be pretty difficult since the silicone is rubbery and it won't sand very well. I'd be using something that would eat it up, like thinner or straight gasoline or alcohol and you should be able to wipe it right off.

Right, those solvents tend to break down the silicone & with elbow greas will clean up ok. Scraping what you can to the surface will help, might even shear it off clean.

[Mark Monkres]

I use Skim from Anchor Paint, what is nice it is watersoluable unlike stripease
or the air craft types. Used it extensively for stickers glue paint, many Chris-Craft re-do's

[mark5pa]

OK. My refurbish season starts 12/26. Two questions. After I have the old paint sanded off, what paint is good? I have an auto body shop that will paint it for free if I put their sticker on.
Second question. I will be moving the steering dash back a bit, what steering wheel angle? 20 degree like most, or more towards horizontal like a lay down? Seems a push/pull would be easier than an up/down, muscle wise. Opinions?

[johnsonm50]

1 stage automotive polyurethane has worked well for me, it can be wet sanded & polished up nicely. It is a bit on the translucent side so a uniform primer is important.. light for light , dark for dark. Would be hard to beat that offer. There are wheel extensions available that you dont need to re-do the pulleys with if you can deal with the angle as is.