Figured out that West system is about 3 times as expensive as the stuff on this thread.....
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Just Remember One Thing
If you compare data sheets from each brand, compare the tensile strength, and flexural strangth of each. You might be suprised. And once you do compare, think about that with all of todays rage in safety. Build it right the first time.
I am not being a smart a z z, I am serious. I have compared a great many epoxy systems, and I always fall back to West. It cost more because there is no comparrison. Also remember, mix ratios also play a role in the strength of the cured product. West System posts their data sheets online at their website for all to see. Easy enough to grab and compare. If you find one that provides the same flexural modulas and tensile strength, and is half the price, I would love to that brand, so let me know.Dave Mason
Just A Boat Racer
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I like Gorilla glue for restoring furniture; gap filling helps a lot on worn pieces. The trouble with it is storage. It bomds the cap to the spout after first use. After the next use the top can't be unscrewed - the stuff glues everything alright. The last try is cutting the bottle apart then sealing with plastic wrap. By the time I get around to use it again it is too thick.
I don't think I ever got to use more than 1/4 of a bottlr, which raises the price. I stopped using it.
Does anyone have a way around this ?
John
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Originally posted by rumleyfips View PostI like Gorilla glue for restoring furniture; gap filling helps a lot on worn pieces. The trouble with it is storage. It bomds the cap to the spout after first use. After the next use the top can't be unscrewed - the stuff glues everything alright. The last try is cutting the bottle apart then sealing with plastic wrap. By the time I get around to use it again it is too thick.
I don't think I ever got to use more than 1/4 of a bottlr, which raises the price. I stopped using it.
Does anyone have a way around this ?
JohnTeam Tower
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I have never had a glue joint fail with what Im using and never had it turn white which I have had with west. The glue between the plys will give up much sooner then pretty much any epoxy will. I just repaired one of my B stock hydros which was built in 2006 the epoxy was just as good under the becks as it was when it was built. Try this with the Gorrilla Glue hold the bottle up right when done, squeeze the air out of it, put the cap on and store the bottle up side down. Air is what thickens the glue. Only buy what you figure you will need in a short period of time as it doenst store wellDestiny is a matter of chance,it is a matter of choice; it is not a thing to be waited for, it is a thing to be achieved.
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Originally posted by G Stillwill View PostI have never had a glue joint fail with what Im using and never had it turn white which I have had with west. The glue between the plys will give up much sooner then pretty much any epoxy will. I just repaired one of my B stock hydros which was built in 2006 the epoxy was just as good under the becks as it was when it was built. Try this with the Gorrilla Glue hold the bottle up right when done, squeeze the air out of it, put the cap on and store the bottle up side down. Air is what thickens the glue. Only buy what you figure you will need in a short period of time as it doenst store wellTeam Tower
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I've used a couple of different brands that were more than satisfactory. West System epoxy was the easiest to work with and left a nice finish that didn't require as much finishing as the others. However West costs a whole lot more money. I generally buy AeroMarine sold by J Greer who has advertised on this site.
kk
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I bought West, 2 cans and 2 pumps years ago. It was OK for some furniture restoration but it didn't store weel. One of the pumps seized and I threw it all out. It wasn't any better than anything else but it was more expensive.
For gluing clean joints , storability and price, Lee Valley fish glue is great. I don't need it to be waterproof.
John
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