Testing, Testing, Testing!

[Dennis Crews]

We all know that there is no substitute for testing and seat time if you want to be competitive in this sport. But what 'testing' means to one driver may be totally different than what 'testing' means to the next guy. With that being said I think there are some basics that would be rather obvious....

1. change only one thing at a time then test it

2. record the results

3. critical data being mph, rpm, and water conditions at the time of the test


That's pretty much 'Testing 101'.

The game then begins with what you do with that information. Being a very green rookie for 2013 I plan on testing as much as weather and work will allow prior to the season. While seat time in itself is extremely valuable I want to make the most of the precious testing time I will have. I want to 'learn how to learn' to maximize that time. So if you have any testing advice you would be willing to share with this rookie I would be ever so grateful. I am not asking for anyone to divulge any hard earned trade secrets here but any help to get me further along that learning curve would be greatly appreciated.

[G Stillwill]

A test day in our camp. First we have the best testing things we can afford. I have a MyCron Data logger which measures RPM.s and Water Temps and also will measure lap times if we set up a course. All can be downloaded into the PC in graphs for each run. The unit will store 50 runs before needing downloading the newer ones hold more. Each run is numbered in a book as to what prop was used along with other comments. We test with the motor at the max legal height and tuck so the props have to run there or they are sent back with the test data to be reworked. All props are tested with the same motor that is well broken in and at its peak hp. We use one or two GPS fixed to the dash so any driver movement doesnt throw off the readings also we start with new batteries in them and they are only reset and never turned off till done. They stay locked into the same Sats that way. Every run is made in the same direction and over the same distance and if for some reason you didnt feel you got a good run you make another pass. The very first run of the day is thrown out as the motor is cold and will usually give a higher reading then a hot motor. We run the same fuel and oil mix all the time without changing anything except refueling. One run each way is all a prop needs so dont ride around trying to get more out of something that isnt there. Now that you have tested all your props and know how they test the acid test is how they race. I have had props that test like gang busters and wouldnt race worth dang. Even the best props loose a mile an hour in race water and some even more. This seems like a lot of work but it is the reason the people that run out in front every week are always out there and doesnt matter what brand of motor is on the back of the boat. When you go testing with Matt your in for a day of work as he is one of the best set up guys around along with being a very good driver.

[Guest]

Testing data log

One additional key thing that must be considered is the local weather conditions. The Microsoft XL log works well for us. Here is the weather station we use. Kestrel makes a great product.

http://www.allkestrel.com/Kestrel-42...cker_c_38.html

Alan

[mark5pa]

A test day in our camp. First we have the best testing things we can afford. I have a MyCron Data logger which measures RPM.s and Water Temps and also will measure lap times if we set up a course. All can be downloaded into the PC in graphs for each run. The unit will store 50 runs before needing downloading the newer ones hold more. Each run is numbered in a book as to what prop was used along with other comments. We test with the motor at the max legal height and tuck so the props have to run there or they are sent back with the test data to be reworked. All props are tested with the same motor that is well broken in and at its peak hp. We use one or two GPS fixed to the dash so any driver movement doesnt throw off the readings also we start with new batteries in them and they are only reset and never turned off till done. They stay locked into the same Sats that way. Every run is made in the same direction and over the same distance and if for some reason you didnt feel you got a good run you make another pass. The very first run of the day is thrown out as the motor is cold and will usually give a higher reading then a hot motor. We run the same fuel and oil mix all the time without changing anything except refueling. One run each way is all a prop needs so dont ride around trying to get more out of something that isnt there. Now that you have tested all your props and know how they test the acid test is how they race. I have had props that test like gang busters and wouldnt race worth dang. Even the best props loose a mile an hour in race water and some even more. This seems like a lot of work but it is the reason the people that run out in front every week are always out there and doesnt matter what brand of motor is on the back of the boat. When you go testing with Matt your in for a day of work as he is one of the best set up guys around along with being a very good driver.

George, are you using the MyChron 3? (basic, basic2t, plus or gold?)
Where are you attaching the water temp & CHT probes?

[mdaspit]

Ask yourself "What am I testing for?"

If you are trying to get that xtra half mile per hour then that's one thing.

If on the otherhand you're trying to learn your boat, get really comfortable in it, and maximize what it already has, then that's another thing.

"Practice" getting thru the turns faster.

[G Stillwill]

Mark I use the MyCron 3 basic and use only the head temp under the top plug. I have had the 3 for a long time and for stocks the basic is about all you need. I guess at some point I will up grade to the 4 but the 3 has worked so well I just never went to the 4. What I outlined was just the prop testing we do, testing motors and boats are another part of it.

[mark5pa]

Mark I use the MyCron 3 basic and use only the head temp under the top plug. I have had the 3 for a long time and for stocks the basic is about all you need. I guess at some point I will up grade to the 4 but the 3 has worked so well I just never went to the 4. What I outlined was just the prop testing we do, testing motors and boats are another part of it.

Thanks. I've just been using the gps for prop/trim/mixture testing. Be nice to get some rpm & temp data to factor with water condition, weather & speed. Does the rpm probe work better than a Tiny Tach? Those are a pain to get working right.

[Dave M]

Test

If you are testing for racing, George is spot on. The only thing I do different is change set ups as I can't afford that many new props. You can change a setup to make a prop work. At least in the bigger classes, the A stuff might be a different deal, I don't know.

One thing I do know, if you are testing to get yourself up front, you need to buy at least two props each winter. Once you find the one that works best work from that. Your prop builder should know what information they need to make the next prop better. It is not as simple as send me a prop, send it back and say it is not faster. Most will want RPM's. Also, learn to guage how well the rig gets out of the corners. is it sluggish ? is it okay ? Does it get top end right away ? A good rig with a good prop will pull most of the way down the straights, and still provide great punch. I suggest if you are testing in Jacksboro, you line up your run the same each time. Run to the boat ramp from the other end. There is a permanant fixture at the other end you can come by and touch it off to get the same pass each time.

Now then, you need some serious seat time. Not just riding around in your hydro, but serious full throttle testing, and entering a corner, smooth around it, and exiting in a way that keeps your sponsons up. You need to test like you are racing for first place. Have Gardner on the beach with a stop watch and take the feedback as constructive. Even long time racers need some advice now and again, don't be scared to ask.

The biggest thing you will need to learn is how to read water conditions well in advance of arriving in that spot. You need to test in very windy conditions that could flip you, and test in dead calm. I will take windy over glass smooth any day of the week. Learn how to guage how the boat is lifting. It is not a sin to drag your turn fin all the way around. It will in race conditions anyways. When i say this, I don't mean all the way in, the tip is perfect. If you don't see the fin spray you know you are least 7 or 8 inches off the water.

Another big thing you can't test for real easy is being around other boats. So get comfy in your rig, and trust its abilities, and know its limitations. If you don't know the limitations it will bite you in the arse at the worst possible time. If you can get a few others to come with you testing some time, and run with you, mixing it up and pushing you around do it.

Feel free to give me a shout anytime.

[HRTV]

If you are testing for racing, George is spot on. The only thing I do different is change set ups as I can't afford that many new props. You can change a setup to make a prop work. At least in the bigger classes, the A stuff might be a different deal, I don't know.

One thing I do know, if you are testing to get yourself up front, you need to buy at least two props each winter. Once you find the one that works best work from that. Your prop builder should know what information they need to make the next prop better. It is not as simple as send me a prop, send it back and say it is not faster. Most will want RPM's. Also, learn to guage how well the rig gets out of the corners. is it sluggish ? is it okay ? Does it get top end right away ? A good rig with a good prop will pull most of the way down the straights, and still provide great punch. I suggest if you are testing in Jacksboro, you line up your run the same each time. Run to the boat ramp from the other end. There is a permanant fixture at the other end you can come by and touch it off to get the same pass each time.

Now then, you need some serious seat time. Not just riding around in your hydro, but serious full throttle testing, and entering a corner, smooth around it, and exiting in a way that keeps your sponsons up. You need to test like you are racing for first place. Have Gardner on the beach with a stop watch and take the feedback as constructive. Even long time racers need some advice now and again, don't be scared to ask.

The biggest thing you will need to learn is how to read water conditions well in advance of arriving in that spot. You need to test in very windy conditions that could flip you, and test in dead calm. I will take windy over glass smooth any day of the week. Learn how to guage how the boat is lifting. It is not a sin to drag your turn fin all the way around. It will in race conditions anyways. When i say this, I don't mean all the way in, the tip is perfect. If you don't see the fin spray you know you are least 7 or 8 inches off the water.

Another big thing you can't test for real easy is being around other boats. So get comfy in your rig, and trust its abilities, and know its limitations. If you don't know the limitations it will bite you in the arse at the worst possible time. If you can get a few others to come with you testing some time, and run with you, mixing it up and pushing you around do it.

Feel free to give me a shout anytime.

Learn how to read the water before you do anything else!

Dave,

This was the biggest learning curve for me when I first got into powerboat racing. (OPC) Sport J Mod UJ at the time, having had zero water (boating) experience before my first test ride learning how to the read the water was the very first thing the now late former F1 driver Harry Davis taught me how to do. The city slicker I was and look on my face clearly told Harry that I had no idea what a roller or swell was :-)

[PRO-MOTIONRACING]

I like to test for racing conditions as much as top speed. To do this I will set up a single buoy and run wide at it with a reducing radius turn to test my props ability to hold RPM and my boat/ turn fins ability to give me a nice smooth arch. I will also dive in tight to test my boats ability to hold a line in a turn, this also gives a chance to test for punch out of a corner.

Basically I test for a worst case scenario in the first turn because in region 10 that's all there going to give you.

[johnsonm50]

Ask yourself "What am I testing for?"

If you are trying to get that xtra half mile per hour then that's one thing.

If on the otherhand you're trying to learn your boat, get really comfortable in it, and maximize what it already has, then that's another thing.

"Practice" getting thru the turns faster.

Aint that the truth.. All the hi tech work is real for those that evolved in the sport as much as to learn it but I'm still working on turns 'n starts & starts 'n turns. It's tuff enuff to run against rigs that are notably faster straight 'n hammer'd >>> These rigs may also sport drivers who've raced way more times & know how to turn. Theres alot to do to make that ride into a race Honestly -Ive questioned whether I've got what it takes but the fun is over-riding.

[Dennis Crews]

Ask yourself "What am I testing for?"

If you are trying to get that xtra half mile per hour then that's one thing.

If on the otherhand you're trying to learn your boat, get really comfortable in it, and maximize what it already has, then that's another thing.

"Practice" getting thru the turns faster.

Thanks Mark. Point well taken.




Thanks everyone for all this great information. I have it all printed and in my notebook now.

Boy do I have a ton of stuff to learn.

[mdaspit]

Watch Rick Miller, (I know he's fast everywhere on the course), but watch him go thru a turn... he comes out 30 feet ahead.

Jack always tries to teach me to turn, what he calls "Swoop it", sometimes I got it, other times not so much. What I learned was... the right way is soo much faster than the wrong way. (You will feel it when you do it right.) If you come out of a turn with the boat already on top of the water, not only have you gone through the turn faster, you will also get down the straight quicker, meaning taking less time.

Go out in a corner boat and watch MacAfee and that other guy... uh what's his name? Oh yeah, Mason. Yeah that's it... Lyle Mason. (Just kidding Dave)

[ZUL8TR]

testing

Back in the 1970's I tested alot for the 25ssh class before joining APBA in Regin 5. Tested in the West Palm Beach area lakes, canals and the Intra Coastal in all sorts of water and wind conditions and kept notes. Harry Pinner made the props and provided valuable info on actually running and the start. Tried all sorts of setups. Back then there was no height restriction so there was a wide gap as to what worked.

I thought I was prepared with the boat for running top speeds and turning. Ha! at the first race that proved to be wrong. The X on the helmet helped to provide an excuse to run in the back. And all the set up stuff needed to be changed for race conditions which could never be matched at testing unless you could test with 11 other boats wanting the same space on the water. Each course proved very different and greatly depended on the weather and the wind conditions. I took notes on set up height and angle and weather and wind speed and direction at all meets so the next time I had something to go by.

Other drivers helped alot and that was appreciated. Little by little you get the feel to race with the top runners and it happens. Then suddenly the course gets tuffer. By far the start was the hardest to get down and I never quite mastered it all the time. What worked for me was keeping the speed and rpms up near max and swooshing on the outside around turns. If done right it was a great feeling to pass the others. At each turn I would always pass very close to one bouy to make any behind me on my left to cross my wake and loose speed. I also found it helpfull to get speed by riding the wake of the boat in front of me like wake surfing. Then when close enough to pass stay away from water spray off the right rear non trip chine that could prove mean if it hits you.

At the start the big clock really appears small so timing from some position in the milling area to the start line needed to be judged at each course.
Pay attention to the flags and don't assume you jumped the gun. Wait till the race is over to stop trying to win. I recall one race where all 11 jumped and I was the only legal boat. I thought to pull in but was signaled from the pits to keep going -picked up 400 that time. Back then 25ssh always had eliminations very popular class. That was the time when Region 5 had 13+ race weekends a year.

Test as much as reasonable for your knees, keep good notes but the real deal is on the course with the other racers and doing the turns right and be efficient with boat attitude and be careful not to scrub off to much speed it all adds up. It is not the fastest that wins but who gets thru all the laps ahead of the others and makes weight and passes inspection.

Good Luck

[Dennis Crews]

Ok. Now to summarize all of this, here is what I have learned so far...

Use a fixed GPS, change only one thing between test runs and record RPM and MPH after each, get to know the 'feel' of the boat, take into account the wind, water conditions, air temp, engine water temp, humidity, air/fuel mixture, gas/oil mixture, barometric pressure, air density and the gravitational pull of the moons orbiting Saturn..., all while watching for just the right amount of turn fin spray down the straightaway, reading the water in the next turn, swooping that corner to not scrub off any speed and keeping the sponons off of the water while doing it.

Is that all there is to it?

Piece of cake man!