Furnal Flyer re-finishing

[buzzie1]

Guys,
I'm getting around to start refinishing the Furnal Flyer ( the old 4B). the bottom is near perfect requiring only a light sanding. The top side has some battle scratches here and there. I will sand this as required in prep for a suitable finish. I'd like to use the same product top and bottom that will also take a quality paint in certain areas on the topside. (some kind of a decent theme, probably in white, with some white over wood finish pin striping. Any recommenations? Also, who is a good source for vinyl numbers and letters. Is there a current driver using "4B"? I'm never going to compete with this rig, but I'd like to keep the numbers on it if possible. I bought it from
Bob and Jimmy Howe, but I believe this was/is a Nichols number.

Thanks,
Buzz Lindberg
Cavendish, Vt
bznpm@comcast.net

[TPLACE31]

Long list of Drivers campaigning the number 4-B. Presently run by Charlie Gonyea and it will probably become available when he retires around the year 2025.

[Dave M]

West System

I would reccomend West System to coat it with top and bottom. It takes paint real well, and also filler primer, etc. It won't accept a simple varnish. I reccomend an automotive quailty clear coat, sprayed on if you are not going to paint.

Sanding the epoxy is key to a great finish.

[susan123]

really nice exchange of ideas thanks dave..........

[ZUL8TR]

Furnal restore

If you are not going to race the boat in sanctioned events but just restore it to original does it really matter if 4B is being used.

Are you going to take the old finish down to bare wood? If yes than an epoxy seal is the way to go then top coat with a clear and paint color of choice. If you go with the auto clear ($$) you will not get the natural wood to look like the varnish used in the vintage days resulting from a Spar Varnish. I was not aware that West epoxy will not take varnish I do not see why not if sanded well and prepared. If that is the case there are other epoxies that will take varnish quite well after a good sanding and prep.

If you are not going to remove the old finish to bare wood do not use epoxy over varnish as incompatability can result.

As far as varnish I have tried many types like Pettit Captains, Epifanes, etc. All good and somewhat expensive. I presently use Minwax Helmsman clear gloss Spar Urathane that is very available at about 1/2 the cost of the others and works very well and offers a rich wood look. I always use a thinner for good flow out depending on ambient conditions. I use the Pettit 120-T10 thinner (but mineral sprits will also work well) because I have some left over from the Pettit varnish I was using. I do test brushing flow out on clean glass to judge the amount to add. Use pure bristle brush or foam brushes depending on the situation.

[Dparker]

4-B Furnal Flyer

If you find any hints of green and yellow on the boat, Then the (4-B) Furnal Flyer that I'm aware of belonged to Leon Ty, who ran in CSH. Leon raced with 4-B in the late 70's ,early 80's. I ran against Leon many years in CSH, we even travelled together to several long distance races including to the Dayton Nationals. I meet Leon again at the 1999 Bakersfield Nationals. He had moved from Massachuetts to the L.A. area of Calif. I was told by Bill Giles that Leon has since passed away a couple of years ago.

Dan Parker

[modracer7b]

4 b

Ben Nichols ASH in the late 80's early 90's. Jimmy probably had it for JSH.

[Matt Dagostino]

Dan

If you find any hints of green and yellow on the boat, Then the (4-B) Furnal Flyer that I'm aware of belonged to Leon Ty, who ran in CSH. Leon raced with 4-B in the late 70's ,early 80's. I ran against Leon many years in CSH, we even travelled together to several long distance races including to the Dayton Nationals. I meet Leon again at the 1999 Bakersfield Nationals. He had moved from Massachuetts to the L.A. area of Calif. I was told by Bill Giles that Leon has since passed away a couple of years ago.

Dan Parker

I ran with Leon many times and i believe he ran a Yale CSH for years. I don't remember his Flyer but of course i don't remember much anymore!!

[Howie Nichols]

Bill,
You are correct. We got the boat from Don Graham I believe, then Ben ran it ASH and Bob Howe ran it in 15SSH. 4-B has been passed around for a while, Dad had it then Leon got it and after his retirement Ben got it. I'm not sure who had it next but I do know Charlie Gonyea has it now.

[Dparker]

Leon's Furnal Flyer

Okay guy's you made me dig out my old pics , I'm not having a senior moment yet, Leon did have a Yale but in the late 70's towards the end of the late 70's early 80's He ordered a new Furnal Flyer as you can see in the attached picture and ran it with the number 4-B. The picture was taken at Lowell, Mass on the Merrimack , I think 1980 or 81. I didn't run my C that day because of an engine problem so I took pictures standing in the water, in the pit area for those who been to Lowell before will know what I'm talking about.
Dan

[Syd Marsden]

For your info, the west system will take varnish ok, it just has to be prepped to remove the blush first before varnishing. It is done all the time with the antique boat people. As a matter of fact I have seen recomendations to use a varnish with a UV blocker to keep the epoxy from breaking down.

[5-A]

Any updated pics? It gave me chills just to see the picture after you had washed it when you got it home, are you going to have it ready for Hubbarton? I look forward to seeing it all cleaned up and redone.

Jim

[Dave M]

Run a Test

For your info, the west system will take varnish ok, it just has to be prepped to remove the blush first before varnishing. It is done all the time with the antique boat people. As a matter of fact I have seen recomendations to use a varnish with a UV blocker to keep the epoxy from breaking down.

I spoke to the West System Tech people. I wanted to do that, they do NOT reccomend it. They did say you could possibly add a varnish or stain to the wood prior to adding the West, if you let the oily stain and oily vanish sit curing for many weeks to let the oil evaporate. Any oil based paint or varnish is not reccomended by the West System folks. I wanted to darken up the wood for a nice finish one time, just a new kind of look. I did what West said. I laid up several samples and tested this prior to re-finishing my Roper. There is a reason it is now painted. You lose strength. If you want a show piece, fine. Once I had the West applied over the stain, I went to smooth it out with sanding and it basically fell off.

If you do try this, simply know my experience is not good with it. I heard of the stain it and let it sit for a few months from the vintage folks once. I typically don't have the time or space to do this. So use at your own risk. I tried this about 6 or 7 years ago, so if West has changed a formula it may be possible, I would call first.

[Beaverman]

We have stained several boats prior to sealing with West System. We use a water based stain and allow it to dry a few days. Works great and looks awesome. The big trick is getting the stain even around glue joints. The stain will not take where any excess west was cleaned up.

[Beaverman]

For varnish I like Pettit high build. You can get it from a west marine. It has a great UV package. I have boats (race and pleasure) that have been sealed in West and then varnished. They still look like new and have seen plenty of sun evev after 10 years of use.