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    I am getting ready to lay epoxy down on new decks on my DSH...pulled 4 mil decks off, replaced then with 3 mil. Have had a heck of a time getting epoxy to lay down correctly. Anybody out there want to give me some tips? Dave Racer.

  • #2
    Make sure your shop and wood are warm, warm up your epoxy before mixing, thin it with denatured alcohol, pour the mixed epoxy into a clean paint tray and use black foam roller to apply. Be carefull if you use the denatured alcohol, it seems to delaminate the black foam from the roller if you take too long applying it. After rolling it on, use an old brush that has alrady lost it's loose bristles, and gently brush out the bubbles left from the roller.

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    • #3
      epoxy

      How much do u thin it down? I am using 1 to 1 Tap plastic epoxy. Temp should no be a problem...I am east of Seattle and it has been very warm here lately.

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      • #4
        I usually poke a hole in the cap of the alcohol can an squeeze a stream of it into the mixing cup. Go by feel. You don't need much. Try something like a tsp per 8 oz. of epoxy. I've screwed up and made it water thin before, and it always has dried. I've only used West System though. Which Tap epoxy are you using? I never heard of them until now.
        http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/cate...47001956428788
        Last edited by kev29p; 09-12-2009, 06:49 PM.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by daveracerdsh View Post
          How much do u thin it down? I am using 1 to 1 Tap plastic epoxy. Temp should no be a problem...I am east of Seattle and it has been very warm here lately.
          Dave

          If its too warm it will still kick off pretty fast and you'll have the same trouble you had before. Apply it early in the morning before it gets too warm
          Sean Byrne



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          • #6
            Originally posted by daveracerdsh View Post
            I am getting ready to lay epoxy down on new decks on my DSH...pulled 4 mil decks off, replaced then with 3 mil. Have had a heck of a time getting epoxy to lay down correctly. Anybody out there want to give me some tips? Dave Racer.
            what.........are you a rookie?????????? Is this your first rodeo?
            Last edited by mercguy; 09-13-2009, 09:25 AM.
            Daren

            ​DSH/750ccmh/850ccmh

            Team Darneille


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            • #7
              Tapp Epoxy

              Originally posted by daveracerdsh View Post
              How much do u thin it down? I am using 1 to 1 Tap plastic epoxy. Temp should no be a problem...I am east of Seattle and it has been very warm here lately.
              For future projects here is a 1:1 marine epoxy I have used that works well, no amine blush, very clear and very cost efficient - 1 pint resin and 1 pint hardner = 1 quart = $19 +S&H, 1 quart resin and 1 quart hardner = 2 quarts = $35 +S&H

              http://www.clarkcraft.com/cgi-suppli...c7b42ecf0a0d39
              "Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
              No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by seanp3 View Post
                Dave

                If its too warm it will still kick off pretty fast and you'll have the same trouble you had before. Apply it early in the morning before it gets too warm
                I always use West, have not thinned it [yet]. Whats the story there, better saturation? Humidity is your biggest enemy but warm is good. I use "all paints" foam rollers but instead of brushing it I run a clean roller over it after it begins to go off. Then while its solidified enough not to move yet still tacky is a good time to recoat. This is where humidity is a risk, it should be low.
                If you use a throw away brush- to prevent bristles from escaping I hold the brush up, sqweeze some glue in the base, tape around it & let it dry. You can also stiffen the brush by taping further up the bristles. When your done & the epoxys dry the waxy film can be washed off with scouring powder. For sanding large flat areas, drywall sanding nets work well & dont clog badly like paper will. Wet sandings the way I prefer for dust control. Good Luck.
                Team Tower

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                • #9
                  epoxy thinning tips from West

                  Originally posted by kev29p View Post
                  Make sure your shop and wood are warm, warm up your epoxy before mixing, thin it with denatured alcohol, pour the mixed epoxy into a clean paint tray and use black foam roller to apply. Be carefull if you use the denatured alcohol, it seems to delaminate the black foam from the roller if you take too long applying it. After rolling it on, use an old brush that has alrady lost it's loose bristles, and gently brush out the bubbles left from the roller.
                  Here is a link to West's recommendations on thinning their epoxy. I bet similiar results apply for other epoxies. They recommend heating the wood rather than solvent thinning but the user needs to determine what is their desire. Solvents cause a strenth degredation and some color change. They discuss thinning solvents: laquer thinner, acetone and denatured alcohol and effects of each for viscosity and strength.

                  http://www.seqair.com/skunkworks/Glu.../Thinning.html
                  Last edited by ZUL8TR; 09-13-2009, 10:11 AM.
                  "Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
                  No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.

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                  • #10
                    Do not thin . . .

                    I use WEST - if you are using something else, check the manufacturer for info on thinning. Not sure what your problem is as WEST always lays down when I use it. I've worked in temps from low 50s F to high 90s F, just choose the right hardener. If you want a clear finish use 207 which is kind off slow but has more UV protection and is crystal clear. I use yellow foam rollers. Roll gently and slow, wait awhile and tip off the bubbles with a light stroke from a soft bristle brush. Done. I'll wait until the epoxy is somewhat hard, not tacky, before a recoat. Epoxy, especially 207 hardener, stay "green" for a day or more and can be recoated without sanding.

                    Tip: if you have time allow epoxy to set a several days, even a week, before sanding down for finish varnish coats or whatever. It sand better, no clogs, and the dust is relitively harmless to humans whereas dust from hard but not quite cured epoxy is nasty for your health record.
                    carpetbagger

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