Pettit Easypoxy with a Purdy brush. It was over the top of Pettit 1015 Captains varnish.
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West systems and painting
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A grizzled veteran
A wise old racer once told me when I was a small lad . . .
"You do not race the top - you race the bottom."
Looking pretty is great on the trailer - running out front gets the GLORY.
My advice, seal the top so it looks good and is protected, then spend the time and money to make the bottom perfect.Last edited by Brian10s; 02-26-2009, 06:04 AM.Brian 10s
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Originally posted by blueskyracer View PostRicochet112, Thats what I am talking about! Looks great. So with the varnish and two colors, how much. About a $100 plus shipping
Good prep and good brush and the stuff is fantastic!
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Found this site with quarts for $26.83 www.wholesalemarine.comMike - One of the Montana Boys
If it aint fast make it look good
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Originally posted by Brian10s View PostA wise old racer once told me when I was a small lad . . .
"You do not race the top - you race the bottom."
Looking pretty is great on the trailer - running out front gets the GLORY.
My advice, seal the top so it looks good and is pretected, then spend the time and money to make the bottom perfect.
Myself, I race the boat a weekend in West and then do the paint prep. I do basecoat/clearcoat automotive paint, yeah it costs more but I like the color choices better. I also think there's something you can add to the paint which allows it to flex more without cracking, more important on wood and plastic bumpers than metal
DaveI always thought growing up would be cool, I was wrong!
The other day GG laughed at me because I take more pills a day than she does....
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From my experience it's all about the prep work and post spraying flattening and polishing.Use the best product you can afford as you generally get what you pay for and remember,patience,patience,patience!Do your sanding with a good water proof paper wrapped around a hard foam sanding pad and use plenty of water.This will keep the paper from becoming clogged and prevent breathing dust.Work your way up to 1200-1500 grit then polish.Switch hands regularily and try to avoid getting "tennis elbow".Remember when spraying,3 light coats are much better than one "heavy" application ie:runs and drips.Clean surface with compressed air then wipe down with a "tack"cloth.Spend the money on good "fine line" tape if you are doing different colours and buy a roll of quality masking paper.Masking tape will "bleed" through at colour transitions,hence the blue plastic fine line tape.Sorry about sounding so anal but there is really no short cuts if you want a quality result. glen Wesanko
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FlexAid . . .
Originally posted by Dave_E71 View PostMyself, I race the boat a weekend in West and then do the paint prep. I do basecoat/clearcoat automotive paint, yeah it costs more but I like the color choices better. I also think there's something you can add to the paint which allows it to flex more without cracking, more important on wood and plastic bumpers than metal
Davecarpetbagger
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Originally posted by Dave_E71 View PostThen again, once Brian takes off his helmet you could have used poopy baby diapers and the boat would look great in comparison....
Myself, I race the boat a weekend in West and then do the paint prep. I do basecoat/clearcoat automotive paint, yeah it costs more but I like the color choices better. I also think there's something you can add to the paint which allows it to flex more without cracking, more important on wood and plastic bumpers than metal
Dave
.......VERY GOOD advice Dave! Doing so gives the epoxy a better "cure time" and makes it alot easier to go back and apply the paint job........
also todays modern urethanes do allow for "flex", so "flexative" is not really that important at all, it was more so designed for plastic bumpers on cars, etc, that take a "bumping" occassionally...................but, I do add "flexative" when painting the stock Yamato carb covers.......Daren
DSH/750ccmh/850ccmh
Team Darneille
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