Help

[Kev43V]

for our local races with the stock omc set up. I just disconnected where the tiller throttle connects to the timing plate. on one of our motors was able to use a ball and knuckle connector like the cable from the tiller handle has. then added the necessary spring to increase the tension for dead man feature to return the throttle to idle with the timing plate moving. On our other motor. it has the gear assembly. I disconnected the rod. then used a bolt through the timing plate. 4 nuts, first two jammed to allow bolt to swivel. the other 2 clamped the cable. in both cases used angle bolted to the stock holes for remote throttle. then clamped the sheathing for the throttle cable to it. that way we didnt have to come up with bellcrank stuff for the carb.

[Skoontz]

There ya go, Kev's got it! And for that matter, I have to ask this Kev....Do you see this set up ANY less safe than the APBA approved throttle linkage we are required to run? What I'm getting at is cost....

[Kev43V]

Scoontz
only that the bracket & clamp assemble sticks out the front of the motor unlike the cable going in the side on the race units. It is important to add a spring. the one in the deadman WILL not move the timing plate back to idle.
In someways it would be better to make your own deadman also. the travel is hardly enough for the timing plate travel.. as i recall we drilled a new hole farther from the pivot on the one we used.

[Skoontz]

We are getting somewhere here!

I always wondered about using thumb triggers like snowmobiles myself

[hartland boater]

Hedlund set up

I know the lower unit looks bad, I want to get the motor set up on the boat before I sandblast and paint the lower unit. I have the motor shimmed up where the Cav plate is about 2" above the bottom of the boat. is this going to be enough? the largest props I am finding are 10" most are power props. there are not any performance props for my Hot rod fishing motor?? As far as throttle linkage can you use a stiffer/thicker type cable as opossed to a stock cable? where do you find them?

[sam]

there are not any performance props for my Hot rod fishing motor?

Manufacturers only set up to make props that they can sell thousands of per year. The market for props like you want is only dozens per year at most

[Skoontz]

First things first.

Judging from where I see the bottom and where the water inlet holes are, you could go another inch or so higher. Take a straight edge ( level works great) place it on the bottom of the boat and let it protrude out to the water holes. One hole below the bottom should give you enough water to cool the engine.

Second, gear case. Don't sandblast it. You can get at the auto parts store (NAPA, Carquest) some aircraft striper. You simply spray it on, let it sit for 10 minutes or so, then wash off the paint. You can paint it if you like, but if you go to your local Mack or Peterbuilt truck dealer, they have polishing kits used on wheels, cost of about $40.00 for the right grit a stick and buffer cloth, and you can make that thing shine like a hillbillies middle tooth!

Third, props. I could not find the maker, I will and get it off to you, but, you can buy 11" stainless cupped props in the $250 range for that motor. you can also get 9.25x12" aluminum for $150.

For now, run the 10", and you may with the new height of the motor, have to cup it. A prop shop can handle that for you, or, try your luck with a ball peen hammer. Take that ring on the back of the prop off, and flip it the other way, with the narrow end toward the front, or remove it all together. I have not tried ours with the ring removed all the way...

[Kev43V]

you could ASK a custom prop builder if they would build you one. for our local race we bent some older ones to get more speed. the alluminum props do not seem to stay where you bend them too very long though.

[Skoontz]

D or E hydro props?

Would it be possible to pull a spline broach through an older one of these that was not working in that class? What is the diameter on one?

[B Walker]

could be just the camera angle......but.....


Try to get the angle of the motor level in relation to the bottom of the boat. You look a little kicked under to me in the pic.

Makes a big difference.

Jut take a straight edge off the bottom and measure the dfference to the cavitation plate at the front and at the back of the plate. Get the measurement evened up and your ready to go.

BW

[hartland boater]

What is up with the steering kits? they look like they attach to the back of the engine. If I ran a piece of aluminum along the front of the engine and attached my steering cables would that cause problems? why do they attach to the back of the engine?

[deverhart1]

bar in front or rear

The bar needs to be in line with the center swivel pin of the motor. The holes in the steering bar should line up with this center pin if you were to draw an imaginary line through the motor from pin hole to pin hole on the other side. The reason for this necessity is that the steering lines will tighten and loosen up as you turn the motor causing a loss of steering control. If the bar is on the front it is harder to make a steering bar to line up. Some motors had a connector on the front handle of the motor down by where the tiller bar connects to the motor. If you were to use that hookup you would need to put the ropes over the top of the steering wheel hub instead of under the bottom of the hub for the steering bar in the rear of the motor. Now that I have you thoroughly confused if you don't test this before you go out in the boat the boat will steer to the right when you are trying to go left and vice versa. Please check out which ever way you hook up the steering before you try to drive the boat.
David Everhart S52

[Skoontz]

In theory you probably could connect the steering bars from the front, so long as the holes line up as Dave mentioned...But, look at the front vs the back of the motor. The easiest solution is using the back rather than the front.

I have often wondered though, if you could use a bracket for the pulleys as a pleasure boat uses, why you could not run the factory mount. As long as the pulleys to the sides were where they needed to be, and there was a way to support them, ( like using the gunnels and corners of a pleasure boat) I don't see why it would not work, but keep in mind, i could be having a total blonde moment here....

[Bill Huson]

That would work . . .

In theory you probably could connect the steering bars from the front, so long as the holes line up as Dave mentioned...But, look at the front vs the back of the motor. The easiest solution is using the back rather than the front.

I have often wondered though, if you could use a bracket for the pulleys as a pleasure boat uses, why you could not run the factory mount. As long as the pulleys to the sides were where they needed to be, and there was a way to support them, ( like using the gunnels and corners of a pleasure boat) I don't see why it would not work, but keep in mind, i could be having a total blonde moment here....

Somewhere in my age-yellowed boat sketches is a few drawings for cable/pulley steering. My plan was to move all the cables inside the cockpit/hull to cut down on aerodynamic drag. But I'm a lazy slacker and never got to building or rigging a boat like that. I also had sketches for a lay-down semi-enclosed cockpit A hydro for a very light driver, but the *rules* didn't allow me to install an electric starter even though it was a stock part for the OMC 15. I also considered TeleFlex cable, but the only safe way to run those without "slop" was dual cables and that system was so weighty I'd have to find a 40 pound midget to drive it.

[Kev43V]

Scoontz we tried that for our lil local race. it worked, but not real well. There is enough deflection from from the arc of the swing of the motor. that we had to have a spring in the cable to compensate for the longer"run" of cable as the motor was turned. I hope I have not confused you with my discription.