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for 3/16 pins (Yamatos, A/B/C/D Merc units, etc) I use the AN393-39 pins (they will fit the large hub props too), for the 1/4 pins (some D Merc units, Bass, etc), I use the AN394-39 pins......
I have NEVER had one fail me, but I replace them every time I put a prop on.................so, I buy (100) at a time of the 3/16 pins.
I use the same clevis pins for stock and OSY motors. Any local aircraft parts dealer at your nearest private aircraft airfield should have these clevis pins for sale. Try to find pins with a decent head thickness (it can vary between pin suppliers.) The aircraft-quality pins certified for FAA-approved maintenance applications on private and commercial aircraft are gold-colored.
Some of the bigger displacement, mod motors for D-Mod and E-Mod (Merc/OMC) need an aircraft-quality "bolt" due to really high torque issues. Racers slightly bore out the shaft and prop holes to fit the stronger bolt pin (also gold-colored.)
Pro motors need a stronger-hardened special alloy shear pin from one of the pro motor dealers (Litzell, Hall, etc.) Konig perfected these special alloy pins. I would not recommend the aircraft quality pins any more for four and five-blade pro props (too many rpm's and too much torque.)
There was a fellow racer that was selling clevis pins for $20 for 50 that had a post here on Hydroracer,Jerry Neises I believe was his name.They are aircraft clevis pins.
A lot of people like the aircraft clevis pin but I don't. I have tried these and a lot of other material but I still like the music wire the best. We run the D Mod class.
for 3/16 pins (Yamatos, A/B/C Merc units, etc) I use the AN393-39 pins (they will fit the large hub props too), for the 1/4 pins (D Merc units, Bass, etc), I use the AN394-39 pins......
I have NEVER had one fail me, but I replace them every time I put a prop on.................so, I buy (100) at a time of the 3/16 pins.
Every time you change the prop send the pin to me...
John Sherlock
I contend that for a nation to try to tax itself into prosperity is like a man
standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle. -- Winston Churchill
The AN part number for a stock 44XS needs to be AN 393 for the 3/16" pins. The length is the number after the dash. I use -33 for most props. Darren uses -39 to cover all props.
If you have a problem with these, the next best thing is an NAS bolt (much higher tensile). I use NAS1103-20 for critical (D Mod) applications.
The 44XS takes a 3/16 pin and yes some people drill them to 1/4. I don't know about the stock class if this is legal but for sure it is in the mods. I never found it necessary to drill one out on the D motor.
Larry Mac
I have used both stainless round stock and the aircraft pins for my D motors with good results. For me the clevis pins get the nod because I don't think I ever had one fail and, more important to me, I don't have to spend any time cutting and grinding a supply of pins for every race. I have been buying them from J. Neises for several years with no complaints.
They were built for the 3/16" pin. Must be 3/16" to be legal in D Stock. Just remember to always use a lock washer under the nut. It helps keep the pin tight and therefore not fail.
Years ago, we used to use #316 stainless rod, worked very well even in a DSR. My Dad purchased some from a nut and bolt supply company in bulk, and he cut it to length. This particular strength rod after a few uses, would slightly bend and thats when we would replace it. I have never seen one sheared. I would think one could still buy this material. Fortunately for me, Dad still had some left over, and he sent me a good amount. What I did is cut about 6 for every prop I have, specific to there hub width and keep them with there perspective prop. Didn`t take too long using a cut off wheel.
Richard Russo
CSH 9-L
2009 NBRA CSH Southern
and Northern Short Course
Nationals Winner
2009 NBRA CSH High
Point Winner
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