Best boat paint.

[mdaspit]

I remember seeing Bob Montoya's boats many, many years ago...
Looked like he used house paint, an he was faster than a scalded dog.
If I thought it would work for me, I'd use house paint too.

[johnsonm50]

Thanks for all replies, The boat in question is a pleasure boat, Its owner a very skilled woodworker & finish guy. I'll pass along this thread for him to read. For my hydros I use automotive paint too, just seemed to make sense as an ex auto body repairman.

[STEVE FRENCH]

Was look'n at Shawn/Fastjack's rig at Tabor City.......Whole top of rig is a flamed decal/wrap.....looks like the flamed paint on paul(?) prices rig.....any pics shawn??..........can you buy these wraps in bulk?...........Link?

[Affholter66]

For what its worth..the boat in my avatar was brushed..Sam Pilato would have a better idea, as he's the Team Casual..Master Painter.

[Islandmon]

For what its worth..the boat in my avatar was brushed..Sam Pilato would have a better idea, as he's the Team Casual..Master Painter.

That boat was rolled and tipped with Easypoxy. The cowl was painted with a Rustoleum spray can. Being that the cowls frequently suffer from cracks, fractures ect it's easy to re-glass the bad spots and feather in with new paint with minimal time and cost.

Sam,

[Dave M]

Second

I have done it........an auto finish weighs much less than that brush on stuff.....and have painted a LOT of boats!!

I second that. It is much lighter. Buy a basecoat paint such as Dupont sells. A quart of that paint does not weigh much, and if you have prepped the hull properly, you will add less than a pound to the boat.

The clear coat can get you. Learn how to clear coat, you can add a lot of weight with that stuff if you don't get it right.

[blueskyracer]

would still like to see some numbers.. Auto paint, primer or base coat,reducer,and hardner for both versus 1 qt pettit and price comparison..Dont for get all the masking tape and plastic

[Islandmon]

I second that. It is much lighter. Buy a basecoat paint such as Dupont sells. A quart of that paint does not weigh much, and if you have prepped the hull properly, you will add less than a pound to the boat.

The clear coat can get you. Learn how to clear coat, you can add a lot of weight with that stuff if you don't get it right.

Dave, I love this thread and all the good advise. That said if you have any tid bits you can share about clear coats I'm sure they wont go to waste.

Thx

Sam,
87-M

[krazy karl]

As far as costs go, auto paint is quite expensive. Petit Easypoxy is available on line from West marine. I think it will cost you about $50 a quart, including shipping. The best deal is Industrial Equipment paint, runs about $60 a gal or so from your local parts supply such as NAPA, CarQuest etc. The only drawback is limited colors, such as Case White, John Deere Green, Caterpillar Yellow, Ford Blue etc. but it is good paint and comes out pretty nice. Sprays pretty nice too and no clear coat required.
kk

[blueskyracer]

Just ordered two quarts at $32.99 a quart from Jamestown.. I will say they are limited on colors but the boat in my Avitar is painted with it.. Fiberglass nose is NAPA rattle can Ford engine blue

Just got a new can and with sealed lid I just weighed it on a postal scale and for 32 fl oz one quart can it weighs 2lbs and 6 oz.. That is it since it needs no hardner or reducer or primer..One coat covers except yellow and white..

[halestorm]

I personally like Interlux Brightside. I've never used Easypoxy but I've read that both are nearly identical. I put on Brightside with a foam brush and people have mistaken it for being sprayed. It self-levels and has a very glossy finish. On the down side, it doesn't blend well, so repairs are not seamless. Maybe Easypoxy is better in this area; you'll have to let us know.

Both are available through Amazon.

[blueskyracer]

I personally like Interlux Brightside. I've never used Easypoxy but I've read that both are nearly identical. I put on Brightside with a foam brush and people have mistaken it for being sprayed. It self-levels and has a very glossy finish. On the down side, it doesn't blend well, so repairs are not seamless. Maybe Easypoxy is better in this area; you'll have to let us know.

Both are available through Amazon.

I did a repair where I ripped the left side deck off and repaired it and now that it has aged for a year you cant even tell where it is.. I have heard that they are a lot the same for application and results.

I never thought of Amazon for it..I will check it out

[PRO-MOTIONRACING]

I have had great luck with the single stage acrylic urethanes. Comes in a kit and one kit will paint a few race boats (top sides).
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...p328/overview/

[Dave M]

Weights

Just ordered two quarts at $32.99 a quart from Jamestown.. I will say they are limited on colors but the boat in my Avitar is painted with it.. Fiberglass nose is NAPA rattle can Ford engine blue

Just got a new can and with sealed lid I just weighed it on a postal scale and for 32 fl oz one quart can it weighs 2lbs and 6 oz.. That is it since it needs no hardner or reducer or primer..One coat covers except yellow and white..

Mike,

The hardner, reducer, etc is part of the quart you mix up. In other words, when I mix a quart of autmotive paint, a quart of paint includes the hardner, reducer, etc. So less actual pigment is used to make up that quart. Does that make sense ? So to compare apples to apples, one would need to mix up a quart of auto paint, and a quart of the brush on stuff, and weigh it. I guarentee the autmotive will be less. It might be by as much as 50% less wet weight. Remember, you can't say what it will wiegh once cured... the brush on paint has a lot more non evaporating chemicals in it to make it strong, and shine. The clear coat is built into the mix already in other words. Along with some fillers to make it blow out smooth.

For clear coat, it is pretty much a learn by do experience. When i spray it, I put on what I call a tach coat, meaning I spray just enough of a light coat to cover it well. Let it sit for about 10 minutes or so to tach up, don't let it kick. Go back and spray a coat for final finish. Go as light as you think you can. If your surface prep (sanding, filling etc) is accurate, it won't take much. I try to set it up so that i can do one side of the boat at a time. So I start fore or aft, and try to do the complete length in one spray. I then overlap the stroke and walk back. If you don't overlap strokes, you will get dry spots in appearances. if the air hose won't let you go the length, do half, with same proceedure, step up and overlap the halfway mark and do it again.

Tip for runs, (don't srpay so much in one spot for starters......) but if you can catch it in its still very raw stage and just sprayed, take some masking tape and dab the run. Then spot it back in with the clear coat. It should lock itself in and run is fixed. Does not always work... but sometimes does. Depends on how happy you were on the amount of product to produce the run.

[mercguy]

Mike,

The hardner, reducer, etc is part of the quart you mix up. In other words, when I mix a quart of autmotive paint, a quart of paint includes the hardner, reducer, etc. So less actual pigment is used to make up that quart. Does that make sense ? So to compare apples to apples, one would need to mix up a quart of auto paint, and a quart of the brush on stuff, and weigh it. I guarentee the autmotive will be less. It might be by as much as 50% less wet weight. Remember, you can't say what it will wiegh once cured... the brush on paint has a lot more non evaporating chemicals in it to make it strong, and shine. The clear coat is built into the mix already in other words. Along with some fillers to make it blow out smooth.

For clear coat, it is pretty much a learn by do experience. When i spray it, I put on what I call a tach coat, meaning I spray just enough of a light coat to cover it well. Let it sit for about 10 minutes or so to tach up, don't let it kick. Go back and spray a coat for final finish. Go as light as you think you can. If your surface prep (sanding, filling etc) is accurate, it won't take much. I try to set it up so that i can do one side of the boat at a time. So I start fore or aft, and try to do the complete length in one spray. I then overlap the stroke and walk back. If you don't overlap strokes, you will get dry spots in appearances. if the air hose won't let you go the length, do half, with same proceedure, step up and overlap the halfway mark and do it again.

Tip for runs, (don't srpay so much in one spot for starters......) but if you can catch it in its still very raw stage and just sprayed, take some masking tape and dab the run. Then spot it back in with the clear coat. It should lock itself in and run is fixed. Does not always work... but sometimes does. Depends on how happy you were on the amount of product to produce the run.

Dave is pretty much right on. Also, remember that alot of the solvents and thinners in the auto paint evaporate out. I would say for a D sized and bigger boat, the auto paint adds about 5lbs, that being 2 stage basecoat/clearcoat systems, could be less if a single stage paint........

it all depends on how nice a finish you want and the quality of the boat is is being applied to.............