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Wanted Test wheel, angle checker, hieght checker for Yamato 80.

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  • Wanted Test wheel, angle checker, hieght checker for Yamato 80.

    I thought I would put out a call for a test wheel, hieght gauge and angle checker for my Yamato 80. If anyone has an extra they want to sell let me know, I'm in the market.




  • #2
    Originally posted by Dave Cofone View Post
    I thought I would put out a call for a test wheel, hieght gauge and angle checker for my Yamato 80. If anyone has an extra they want to sell let me know, I'm in the market.
    Brown Tool and Machine... btmco.com has the height gauge, angle checker and a test wheel.... just remember there is no water pump.... but you could use the ‘bilge pump / battery’ setup method for pumping water through the motor while using the test wheel. If you are doing this to set the high speed needle valve the motor needs to be running the same rpm as running down the lake....Just an FYI.
    sigpic

    Dean F. Hobart

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    • #3
      Dean, don’t you have to plug the pickup holes too? This is what I have done while using a pump or garden hose. Just have to remember to remove the tape when you are done. I know someone who cooked a newly rebuild 102 this way. You also connect where the brass plug is on the lower unit of the Y80. On the 102 it is on the back of the powerhead just above the lower unit. Also hook up your tach (tiny tach works good) while running on the test wheel, you can dial the carb in easy this way.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by deeougee View Post
        Dean, don’t you have to plug the pickup holes too? This is what I have done while using a pump or garden hose. Just have to remember to remove the tape when you are done. I know someone who cooked a newly rebuild 102 this way. You also connect where the brass plug is on the lower unit of the Y80. On the 102 it is on the back of the powerhead just above the lower unit. Also hook up your tach (tiny tach works good) while running on the test wheel, you can dial the carb in easy this way.
        Yes to tape the pickup holes.
        "Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
        No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by deeougee View Post
          Dean, don’t you have to plug the pickup holes too? This is what I have done while using a pump or garden hose. Just have to remember to remove the tape when you are done. I know someone who cooked a newly rebuild 102 this way. You also connect where the brass plug is on the lower unit of the Y80. On the 102 it is on the back of the powerhead just above the lower unit. Also hook up your tach (tiny tach works good) while running on the test wheel, you can dial the carb in easy this way.
          You are absolutely correct.... if he does not know how to do the hookup he will need someone to show him how.

          Yes exactly as you said.... Tape up the water inlet holes in the tower housing and remove the brass plug and get the proper threaded hose connector to attach to the garden hose or hose from the bilge pump. It’s possible someone makes a Kit.

          And make sure to remove the tape before you run it down the lake.
          sigpic

          Dean F. Hobart

          Comment


          • #6
            Sorry, I have a Y 80 and I don't understand why you tape the inlet holes? Is hose water sent through the brass plug hole? Could you detail each step? speak slowly.
            Thanks so much.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Fastfrank View Post
              Sorry, I have a Y 80 and I don't understand why you tape the inlet holes? Is hose water sent through the brass plug hole? Could you detail each step? speak slowly.
              Thanks so much.
              You tape up the inlet holes so when the engine is under water pressure from a house hose placed at the brass plug in the tower so water will not mostly run out the inlet holes and just go to the powerhead to cool, water will also now come out the bleeder hose on the power head exhaust. I use nothing but the hose and tape to cool the engine when stand running. I also place engine in a barrel with water and run it with a test type wheel on the prop shaft to provide some load.
              "Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
              No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.

              Comment


              • #8
                Another important point regarding the brass plug. It may not be there. The motors don’t come with a brass plug for an alternate source of cooling water. Racers install that plug by drilling and tapping a 1/8 inch pipe thread hole. Have a racer show you where to do drill. Interestingly, the rules don’t say you can do this but everyone does and no inspector will object.



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                • #9
                  Also, don’t confuse the brass exhaust relief hole With the brass plug.



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                  • #10
                    Dave,
                    Good to hear you got a boat ride!
                    Just my 2 cents after running Y80s for many years....
                    Set the carb at 28-32 clicks and go have fun.
                    Testwheels don’t work great on the 80 and we’ve seen more people fry motors because they left the plug out or forgot to take tape off the holes.
                    Go ride around and get lots of boat time. That’s worth much more than anything right now.

                    Have fun!
                    -Mike

                    Comment


                    • Dave Cofone
                      Dave Cofone commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Thanks Mike......I think it's Mike. That sounds like the most reasonable solution. I'm just looking to have some fun. Go to some races and start and finish. I look forward to learning from you guys....AND gals.

                  • #11
                    Originally posted by pav225 View Post
                    Dave,
                    Good to hear you got a boat ride!
                    Just my 2 cents after running Y80s for many years....
                    Set the carb at 28-32 clicks and go have fun.
                    Testwheels don’t work great on the 80 and we’ve seen more people fry motors because they left the plug out or forgot to take tape off the holes.
                    Go ride around and get lots of boat time. That’s worth much more than anything right now.

                    Have fun!
                    -Mike
                    There you go, you have heard it from the expert. Just get the angle checker and height gauge. Be real conservative on the height at first.... at least 1” down.... then when you are more confident in the boat... ‘sneak’ up on the 1/2” limit.

                    sigpic

                    Dean F. Hobart

                    Comment


                    • Dave Cofone
                      Dave Cofone commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I didn't know about that. I certainly will lower the motor and get some laps under my belt. Thanks for the suggestion, I didn't think of that. It was a bit squirrely but I thought that was just my inexperience......Obviously it is my inexperience but I never took boat setup into consideration to help with control. Can't wait to see you all again at Millville.

                  • #12
                    Originally posted by pav225 View Post
                    Dave,
                    Good to hear you got a boat ride!
                    Just my 2 cents after running Y80s for many years....
                    Set the carb at 28-32 clicks and go have fun.
                    Testwheels don’t work great on the 80 and we’ve seen more people fry motors because they left the plug out or forgot to take tape off the holes.
                    Go ride around and get lots of boat time. That’s worth much more than anything right now.

                    Have fun!
                    -Mike
                    Mike
                    Good advice seat time beats tank time. I just tank it to check for obvious water and fuel leaks on reassembly.
                    Do all the 80's production have the same design on the high speed jet screw taper and main jet taper for fuel flow? My 80 is #4768 made in '76 and bought from McKean Marine in '78 when 20ssh was started, 1 rev open on main jet needle is 28 clicks and runs best at 26 clicks at 7200, too rich at 30, manual has 1.5 turns on main jet ?
                    Thanks
                    Pete
                    "Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
                    No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.

                    Comment


                    • #13
                      Dave, you may find my book useful. https://hydroracer.net/2015%20Hydro%20basics.11.7.pdf
                      John Adams



                      Comment


                      • Dave Cofone
                        Dave Cofone commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Heck yeah. I read it and re-read it all the time. The info I received just from this one post is very helpful. I keep a note book of everything I learn. I am really starting from scratch even though I've had the boat going on two years. Anything I know about boat racing is inboards.....these outboards are uncharted territory for me. The boat doesn't even handle the same.......I'm glad I stuck with it and finally got a ride in it. Now more than ever I want continue. Thank you so much for compiling the book.

                        Dave Cofone

                    • #14
                      John,
                      I read your book and think you did a fine job. Very helpful.
                      Thanks

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