Unconfigured Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Giving a Bezoat a Second Chance

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Was in the neighbourhood today where the boat is stored…unfortunately it was snowing so we left it on the rack. Lots of work to do in the next month though.
    E97FD666-640A-4D4F-8F9D-4515F6F5DA9C.jpeg



    Comment


    • The top red boat appears to be a Bezoats also… Correct?
      sigpic

      Dean F. Hobart



      Comment


      • Dean,
        It was built by Steve Carruthers in 1986 and won the Canadian nationals that year.
        My brother bought it last summer from an gentleman who had owned it for 15 years, before that we don’t know where it was for a decade.
        The coaming and look are definitely Bezoat inspired ( I don’t think Steve would mind me saying that) but the more I look at it the more it’s different on the underside from my boat and the black Bezoat you’ll see on earlier pages.



        Comment


        • It’s really coming along now.
          8DE26A91-19D7-4AB6-97F4-5F8D053D5D33.jpeg



          Comment


          • bill hoctor
            bill hoctor commented
            Editing a comment
            A lot of HOT Spots!

          • Albert
            Albert commented
            Editing a comment
            Bill, I kept at it and got a few more pits out . It’s not ideal but it’s way better than last years.

        • New rings arrived from TJ tonight so I gapped them and threw the cylinders on.
          Just last time but now it will have a better head and better ring gap.
          16EC8A53-AE9E-45C0-9DF3-2A607B49398E.jpeg



          Comment


          • ZUL8TR
            ZUL8TR commented
            Editing a comment
            Here's to your success on that engine, may the Yamato God's be with you!
            To keep tabs on all my engine's internals I do cold (keeps temp about constant) compression checks throttle wide open and keep track of the "same gage" readings each pull, and log in all readings. On the Y80 4-5 rope overs reaches max. psi, shouldn't be more than that for good bore, piston and ring seal. I look for a high 1st pull # that indicates a good suck air-in compress breather. On the Y80 I get 95-100 on 1st rope and 3-4 more ropes to get 150), darn near the same (+/- 2-3psi) for each cylinder. This std. bore Y80 engine has the same rings and pistons from when I bought it in 1978 and raced back then with testing + these days at AOMCI meets. Might re-ring it one of these days? Must be oil is cheaper than parts! ;-)

          • Albert
            Albert commented
            Editing a comment
            Curious is your motor stock/as stadium raced? Or was it worked over by someone ?
            I was told to shoot for 150+ for a healthy motor.

            And your right on the oil. 15:1 here I come.

          • ZUL8TR
            ZUL8TR commented
            Editing a comment
            Luc

            Nobody has ever worked on my Y80, just me and not blue printed just a stocker with things done below. Yes 150 is a healthy engine but both cylinders need to be darn close.

            I received the engine in 1977 from distributer McKean Marine in Texas through Yamato rep and racer/ boat builder/prop maker and dear friend Harry Pinner (RIP). At the time I did nothing except have a 9/16" prop shaft put in, didn't know about the ignition timing or carb settings, did set up testing with Pinner 3 blade prop. In 1978 the Y80 was a probationary engine in the new class 20SSH (hydro) and 20SSR (runabout), I ran 20SSH and did well. I did align the block, exhaust outlet to the tower as noted in the manual and properly torqued the bolts. Also adjusted the tower tuner to have a great seal to the powerhead/exhaust. Cleaned and adjusted the carb. Head pulled off on occasion to clean any carbon (none in combustion chamber but always some on piston crown. Put in 18 to 14mm spark plug inserts. Adjust timing often since the Y80 has trouble keeping it right on due to poor top bearing selection and difficult to get oil up there. Recently replaced seals and ball bearings in the gear case. To this day basically a Japan stadium raced engine with same rings and pistons stock bore. I have std after market rings and when ready to replace will just do the top rings. I use more oil than manual states at 25:1 like 16 - 18:1 synthetic blend Pennzoil XLF with 87 E free and that extra oil does accumulate in the tower/ tuner but figured so what it runs great.

            Pete

        • I keeping with the motors Japanese roots let’s do a little kiezen and fix two other little issues.
          Remember when the foot wouldn’t come off last year? Well it has been off a few time since. One of those times the seal retainer ring at the bottom of the tower that holds the driveshaft came off with the foot!
          So tonight I removed that brass bushing, cleaned up the bore and the bushing and applied some retaining compound to make sure it stays in place. While it was out I took a piece of flat bar and gave the foot mounting surface a quick flattening…it’s not perfect but it’s better and should be fine with a gasket.



          Comment


          • ZUL8TR
            ZUL8TR commented
            Editing a comment
            Luc
            Yes to the Kaizen way to make improvements. Interesting the tower seal retainer came off, that is an interference fit? Good on the flattening of the gear case to tower surface. You can always add a thin coating of silicone to the outer part of the seal perimeter case that fits in the gear case recess bore for additional protection to prevent water entry. I just use a thin coat of wheel bearing grease (with molydisulfide additive) on both sides of the gasket that aids seal to prevent water entry. I do the same on the powerhead to tower gasket for better air seal and easy remove with no gasket stick and a ruined gasket.
            Pete

          • Albert
            Albert commented
            Editing a comment
            I think the seal retainer was knocked loose when I was trying to removed the seized foot last year. It required quite a lot of persuasion.
            Either way it’s in now and I just pressed a fresh seal in before the baby had time to wake up from her nap.
            Also took a few minutes to shape the epoxy that had all winter to cure around the water pickup on the foot.
            I like your grease idea and may put a little sealant on the foot side of the foot gasket as I don’t have a mill to her it as flattened out.

            When I retire I’ll have my own mill and lathe…in another 30 years .

        • Now we’re getting somewhere.


          Edit: It has been suggested I get copper washers and fresh hardware for the head. I think that’s a good idea will order on Monday.
          Last edited by Albert; 05-14-2022, 11:12 AM.



          Comment


          • Albert
            Albert commented
            Editing a comment
            It’s an oe .5mm, I sprayed it with permatex copper hg spray. I do it to every metal head gasket I install. Two coats and let it tack up then install.

          • ZUL8TR
            ZUL8TR commented
            Editing a comment
            Have you had trouble with leaking head gasket so you do the Cu coat to prevent?
            I tried that Cu stuff once and it does have some thickness and noticed a small drop in compression psi, found not needed. I have never blown a head gasket, I torque in 4 steps.

          • Albert
            Albert commented
            Editing a comment
            No issues with head gaskets on this motor so far. I guess it’s a habit I just picked up when doing my first turbo diesels with 24:1 compression ratio and an extra 25psi of atmosphere being shoved in the cylinders the head gaskets on them needed all the help they could get.
            As I said I’ve just always used it on metal head gaskets. I can see that it would probably cost you a very small amount of compression, but I think it’s worth it when you pull a head and immediately see at a glance if any part of the gasket has had a leak.

        • E617BCCD-ECBF-495C-A5D1-EB3E1955403F.jpeg
          A good cleaning and this thing might finally be nice enough to earn its keep on the back of the Bezoat!



          Comment


          • Albert
            Albert commented
            Editing a comment
            At the base gasket nothing but the gasket.
            At where the powerhead meets the tower just the gasket...was going to run a little sealant around the exhaust but the gasket removed showed no sign of leaking. (I know double standard compared to the hg sealant )

            At the foot, I plan to run it once now that the flanges are in better shape If I still get a little water in the gearcase oil the sealant will come out.



            I wonder why my photos are suddenly 90* off.

          • ZUL8TR
            ZUL8TR commented
            Editing a comment
            Luc
            Where I meant and stated wrong was the sealant used for the crank case halves, what brand and type are you using?
            Thanks Pete

          • Albert
            Albert commented
            Editing a comment
            Permatex motoseal for the crank case sealant.

        • Well I put a couple inches of water in the boat today and found exactly 0 leaks.
          I’m no mr Holmes.



          Comment


          • ZUL8TR
            ZUL8TR commented
            Editing a comment
            Luc

            Filling with water may not reveal a leak other source possible.
            Since you said you did get water in the boat when you were running it then somehow it got in? Assuming you did not get water splashed in when running and/or when you climbed in maybe it was a outside water pressure leak under way. Example making high speed left turns there is a lot of water pressure on the right side that could force water in a seam on the right sponson chine seam and/or on the rear chine seam. Look close there for any suspicious areas. This has happened to my hydro and it took a Holmes close look to see it.
            Pete

        • 5A3CF5BF-51DD-4BE2-A03B-0D9B614EA6AF.jpeg Alright Yamato 80 gurus riddle me this. Why is is when I feed low pressure water back through the motor it’s flowing out this port on the bottom of the cylinders instead of out of the regular coolant passage that leads down to the pickup?
          Is this a pressure release that operates backwards when pressure is applied from the wrong direction ?
          Attached Files



          Comment


          • ZUL8TR
            ZUL8TR commented
            Editing a comment
            The pic does not come thru just black?

        • FA8983D3-DDD0-4D81-8287-0EDC5A5F6499.jpeg Take two.



          Comment


          • ZUL8TR
            ZUL8TR commented
            Editing a comment
            Luc
            I have never done this test you indicate.

            I have only supplied pressure water at the brass plug on the tower with the 2 pickup holes taped up at the tower exhaust release snoot. Then see that a nice stream ejects at the bleed off hose like you have in post #175, I have that hose as well.

            There is also a pic of you running with a nice coolant stream shooting out that hose, great riddle me this so why the concern? ;-)

            Have you tested pressure water flow the way I describe above?

            Do you think you have a water passage clog in the power head?
            Where are you supplying the low P water in the test?
            As far as I know there is no pressure release valve in the powerhead.

          • Albert
            Albert commented
            Editing a comment
            I’ll try and answer your questions.
            I wanted to feed water through the outlet because I didn’t have the proper fitting to go through where the brass plug is.
            It was concerning because I assumed water only exited the motor through the hose from the exhaust manifold. So when I saw water exiting the tower instead of the coolant inlet ports I assumed I had problems.
            The last two runs last year I had issues cooling so I’m a little paranoid about cooking this motor again.

            My leading theory right now is that the port pictured above would release any water down onto the megaphone that could not flow through the water outlet on the exhaust manifold due to restriction.

            When you run the motor with a hose to the brass plug does all water exit from the water outlet or does some exit from the exhaust/base of the tower ?

          • ZUL8TR
            ZUL8TR commented
            Editing a comment
            To get water into the tower brass plug I use a rubber hose that closely fits the hole size and attach a fine jet brass nozzle into the rubber hose. The rubber hose is made in 2 pieces one that fits the tower hole ID and another that fits the OD of that hose and is glued in (I use E6000 great stuff) and that larger hose ID fits the brass nozzle jet tip. These brass hose nozzles that fit a garden hose are available at Lowes and Home Depot (are those stores in Maple Leaf country?). If not a hardware store might have them. Ask for more details if needed?

            Then I tape the 2 cooling inlet holes at the tower exhaust snoot with aluminum duct tape works best for me to stick to the aluminum snoot and not come off under supply water pressure.

            When I turn on the water pressure it comes out the exhaust snoot as well as the rubber relief hose at the power head. By varying the water supply pressure you can see the rate of flow increase at both locations without running engine. To do stand running to check timing adjustment with inductive strobe light I do not do it too long and keep the revs down and keep a look at the water flow at the power head rubber relief hose.

            When under way before planning off there is a solid stream of water at the power head relief hose. On plane at speed there is also a good stream out the rubber relief hose but not as solid as before planning due to not perfect prop water blast. If under way and I back off throttle a little the water flow to the snoot 2 feed holes will stop until back on throttle. I run the Y80 at 1/2" - 5/8" below bottom with a parallel prop shaft to the boat bottom, no kick in or out. Boat airs out the best like this with sponsons about 2" off water at speed.

        • The basket case 80 lives again!
          I’ll see about some video later for now it’s just great to hear it run.
          Time to start work on the new one.


          Pete,
          You were on in your description, when fed from the brass plug the motor fills to the point where it flows out of the exhaust outlet then eventually it sends water down the other port into the tower.



          Comment


          • https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ADA154rs0aA
            Quick video for posterity.



            Comment


            • ZUL8TR
              ZUL8TR commented
              Editing a comment
              I see you have the water feed at the brass plug but couldn't see the water discharging out the right side relief hose. Is that at full mag advance? Sounds like it was stumbling some, what were you doing to cause that?

            • Albert
              Albert commented
              Editing a comment
              I had turned off the hose and only ran it for a few seconds.
              Probably stumbling as it was starving for air with the throttle fully closed.
              I didn’t dare rev it up as the kiddos we’re already in bed.
          Working...
          X