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  • help!

    I am searching/looking for thoughts on how to or what products might be available to patch / fill a void [ melted away internal head combustion area aluminum ] on a 44 merc . I had the hole welded from the outside but still need to patch the inside area [ apparently can't be welded ]. I haven't found/ figured as to why this happened [ other cylinders all ok ] and hate to scrap this block if at all possible. All opinions welcome!

  • #2

    Re: help!

    It's too bad Quincy Welding is no more. Gene East could probably have fixed that for you.
    Son of L-11 likes this.

    Comment


    • #3

      Re: help!

      Can you cut a piece of a different block and weld it in place. Is the hole near the sparkplug?

      Comment


      • #4

        Re: help!

        Sounds like you need a block, I have a good Merc 500 block and CC. $40 plus shipping from Maryland.

        Comment


        • Larry M
          Larry M commented
          Editing a comment
          If you weld on a block it will distort the cyl. If you are going to bore after welding you just as well get another block. I know a lot of plug holes have welded but check before you weld and then after and see what you have. The welder could have burred out the area that was a problem and the weld would penetrate thru to problem area. Them you could clean up the inside with a die grinder.

      • #5

        Re: help!

        Schmidt can weld a pair of socks together. Give him a call
        benf27 likes this.
        sigpicWayne DiGiacomo

        Comment


        • rumleyfips
          rumleyfips commented
          Editing a comment
          I once heard that Dick Fickitt could weld a fart to a cloud.

      • #6

        Re: help!

        any thoughts on what the combustion temp would be on the internal cylinder head surface? maybe looking for a epoxy filler.

        Comment


        • dwhitford
          dwhitford commented
          Editing a comment
          Don't even think about that!

      • #7

        Re: help!

        Had that happen to upper cylinder last year. Block is scrap. Get another and save a lot of headaches
        David Everhart S52
        Avatar credit - F. Pierce Williams

        Comment


        • dil/viller
          dil/viller commented
          Editing a comment
          never give up,,, never surrender!

      • #8

        Re: help!

        Aluminum melts at 1220 degrees F, Dura-Fix melts at 732 degrees F, and Combustion Area operates at say 450 degrees F (guess). Me, I would try the Dura-Fix, what do you have to loose? Tip 1) clean area with STAINLESS steel brush!, 2) Dura-Fix flows like water when heated at temperature, you will need to contain the molten metal (it like casting a part). Steps Clean base metal, "TIN" area - heat the aluminum and let IT MELT the Dura-Fix, continue to heat and add more Dura-Fix until filled.
        Most will tell you not to it. If the operating area is actually around 450 F, it should work I believe. I have used it twice now for repairs to a Konig race engine, one to the case and to carbs.
        Last edited by KURPS; 03-13-2019, 09:04 AM.

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        • #9

          Re: help!

          Comment


          • #10

            Re: help!

            Comment


            • #11

              Re: help!

              The problem is that anything other than aluminum is going to melt. The reason is that anything other than a metal doesn't conduct heat away from the combustion chamber. So the surface of the material that you put in there will be a lot hotter than if it was metal and more conductivity. That hotter surface will promote detonation and then it will get blasted out of there if it doesn't melt first. If you could weld it up without distorting the bores that would be fine, but more than likely you'd have to rebore it anyway after you do the necessary welding. Just get another block. There are tons of them out there.

              Comment


              • #12

                Re: help!

                Yellowjacket - What temperature is the combustion area? Have YOU tried this or similar products?

                Comment


                • #13

                  Re: help!

                  Dura fix is no good, there is no fusion of materials . AS SEEN ON TV JUNK!
                  We have tested this junk in our welding dept. waste of time!
                  Tell me, what was your application?
                  This isn't welding.
                  dil/viler asked for ideas to patch or fill a void that a welder couldn't do. Do you have an answer for him?


                  Comment


                  • #14

                    Re: help!

                    Problem is it is in combustion chamber at the top right where the fire is. If you still have a good crank, rods, and pistons, why would you want to take a chance on ruining those parts. Those are worth lots more than a block. After working on lots of motors over the years I feel I am giving good advice
                    David Everhart S52
                    David Everhart S52
                    Avatar credit - F. Pierce Williams

                    Comment


                    • dil/viller
                      dil/viller commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Dave, you ask why. Well because I walk around half blonde and am polish. I have no other excuses for my most of the time idiot thoughts. One day closer to only 3' of snow left. Hope to see you in Depue. Also still appreciate all replies.

                  • #15

                    Re: help!

                    Gotcha. I guess that I am so old that I only have time to do a job once. Don't like to have to repeat something after I knew better. It is usually more expensive the second time around and when you're a tight (rearend) like I am you can understand my thinking. Better ways to spend money
                    David Everhart S52
                    David Everhart S52
                    Avatar credit - F. Pierce Williams

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