Yamato PRO ?, PR FS

[bh/]

Is the tail cone on a early Yamato PRO l/u left or RH thread ?
I have a empty case FS, with the cone stuck.
Also a Johnson PR case , maybe VR, empty also
Some Konig 'Links' , parts, cases etc .

[bh/]

[Guest]

The Konig old style lower unit stamped "Link" means left hand threads.
The Yamato unit needed a special wrench, which was a full circle ring with 4 flat bars welded to the inside of the ring that matches the flats on the lower unit cone, welded to the outside of the ring was a handle about 12 - 16" long. The hard part, I don't remember if the cone was left hand. My guess it was.

[bh/]

-by the looks of the tail cone on this L/U,
one some one had a pipe wrench, not 'the wrench'
and guessed wrong

[Steve77t]

Brain, The tail cone nut is lefthand tread, At the top of unit where the cone seats up to, you will see a small allen type set screw. This screw stakes the cone nut in place. Remove that completely first and then turn tail cone clockwise. Steve

[bh/]

Steve; - it would appear the guy with the pipe wrench violently removed that set screw.
I will warm it up and try it CW, ie LH Eld Yam lu.JPG .
Has anyone noticed or commented on the similarity of this l/u
and the earlier Eldridge D unit ..?

[treadguy]

What gear ratio is the Eldredge lower unit, and is it for sale?

[bh/]

sorry, sold it last month
-it was one under

[Steve77t]

Brian, As I said it is left hand thread or LINKS! There is a good chance that mechanic messed this one up big time, Steve

[Smitty]

There's another possible problem, in that these two threaded parts are aluminum on aluminum, which isn't a great combination especially if the fit is tight and the parts are dry, and can tend to gall, ripping away tiny chunks and balling them up between the threads. Your cone might not merely be over-tightened; it might be "spot-welded" to the inside of the gearcase by galling. If so, brute force may get it apart, but not without destroying the original threads. Probably repairable however.

If you can't get the cone out with any trickery short of dynamite, maybe think about sacrificing the cone to keep from cracking the gearcase casting; cutting up the cone with a small abraisive wheel in a port-grinder and working the small pieces loose. I've never had to do this, but I'd think about it as a way to save an expensive gearcase; you can make a new cone . . .