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If you build it use spruce for the framing and Okume ply 6mm bottom and sides and 3mm deck with epoxy glue for all. Warning having built Kelly boat he uses rather large dimensions between ribs and gets bottom stiffness with stringers and a vertical stiffener to make like an inverted T beam between cross ribs. Be accurate making these the stringers tend to warp if not. They are secured at each rib with 45degree spruce blocks glued and nailed, predrill them for 3 nails each block, use #15 x 1"SS or bronze. Then do a big flat sand stick 2"wide x 2'high x 18" using 120 grit and hand fare the bottom stringers fore and aft and side to get these stringers very flat for the about the last 4 feet then put the plywood on. If not very flat the boat will not perform well. You can use anchor nails like silicon bronze. I prefer SS #316 anchor nails in the #14 and #15 gage thickness, #14 x 1" for 6mm and #15 x 3/4" for 3mm. I have found the bronze and spruce are a turn green combo over time, SS no problem ever. However period nails used by Hal Kelly were Bronze.
You need the rib drawings for the FooLing to build it.
Also the preferred spruce is Sitka but not cheap. I have used #2 straight grain clear spruce at the big box stores Lowes, Home Depot with few knots and buy wide 1 x 6, 8 x lengths needed clean warp free and rip and cross cut as needed. Never had a rib or stringer break if wood used carefully selected.
You need the rib drawings for the FooLing to build it.
Also the preferred spruce is Sitka but not cheap. I have used #2 straight grain clear spruce at the big box stores Lowes, Home Depot with few knots and buy wide 1 x 6, 8 x lengths needed clean warp free and rip and cross cut as needed. Never had a rib or stringer break if wood used carefully selected.
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